File :-(, x, )
Work in progress kurisu-kun
any one willing to test a prototype of my work in progress -- Kasumi from DOA? i have the head done so far, but i may make revisions. anyone who built it, I /r/ a pic of the completed piece from you.
>> kurisu-kun
     File :-(, x)
parts page #1
>> Anonymous
>>25914
FUCK YEAH!! cant wait for the finsihed model!!! Man somone needs to make some Guilty Gear models
>> Anonymous
DOA?
>> Anonymous
>>26017
get the fucking fuck the fuck out
>> Anonymous
>>25916
>> Anonymous
I'm SO gonna make one at 1:1 scale when it will be finished
>> Anonymous
>>26147
we know you are... we know what kind of people post on 4Chan...
>> Anonymous
>>26156

A true 4channer would print it on metal, then bend them in place, and insert a robotic skeleton. And then robot kasumi would take over the world!
>> kurisu-kun
i was just thinking that myself.
>> Anonymous
how you discovered my evil plan?????
>> Anonymous
The breasts would be there own damn page
>> Anonymous
wow, i can't wait for the rest of this
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
All of these people ogling over Kasumi and I'm the female that listens to the request.

I'm going to send two pictures of the face which I have put together so far, and also send a pic of the whole page after it's printed so you can see the cmyk conversion in case you're a perfectionist on color like Masamune Shirow and want to change it.

The main thing I would suggest omitting so far is the numbers. At least I think they're numbers. I can't tell once it prints. They're not needed for putting this together since you're showing how it's going together really well with the photo model.

The fact that it is so small and has so many flaps is slightly annoying, but it's worth it, so I wouldn't change it. It seems to help with putting it together as well.

I'd suggest for anyone else that wants to mess with this prototype that you will need to use a toothpick and a razor blade for this one. It's too small to get everything to bend without a little help from a razor, and the flaps are too tiny for anything larger than a toothpick.

Anyway, here's a picture of the face. I have a penny beside it to show how small it is.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
These pretty much let you know why I reccomend getting rid of the numbers. Ah, and the numbers don't show up quite as badly on most of the rest of it since it's darker.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
And finally, the page when it's printed on my printer.

Also, to everyone that sees this when I'm done, it's not going to have the ribbons or the ponytail. When the OP said head, he/she meant head.
>> Anonymous
>>26584
Some further tips: I don't know if the maker of this template knows this, but you can change where the join-numbers are: after creating the development in Pepakura, click the configuration menu -> join number configuration -> reverse join number position. This way Pepakura will try to print the numbers on the outside of the parts if possible, not on the parts itself. Sometimes there's no room to do this and you're out of luck... Many times, it's very convenient to have these join numbers if the papercraft is difficult, but sometimes it's not really necessary, so you decide if you want them or not. ;o)

Also about the small tabs: you can also change this in the configuration menu -> flap configuration and then input how big you want the flaps to be (input a number in mm). This will change all the tabs at once, you can also change every tab individually by right clicking in the development window -> edit tab, and then click on a tab. You can choose to put it on the other side, and you can change the size.

Make sure the tab isn't bigger than the part it should connect to, though! ;o)

Good luck!
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>26587

Thanks for giving some input too. I don't know anything about the papercraft programs, so I'm not helpful at all in that area. I didn't even know there were programs made just for this until /po/ started.
Also, do you know how to change the color of the lines? They tend to show up a lot on the lighter colors, but they're necessary for this papercraft.
As far as I can tell from putting the head together, there isn't a need for numbers as long as you have the 3-D guide for the finished product. Also, the numbers are so small that a lot of them weren't legible when printed. They get a little fuzzy, probably from the ink bleeding a little on my printer.

Now, more pictures.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
This is the last one.

To the OP, this is a spectacular model. My mom came in when I had the face and the back of the head completed, and she said it was an awesome papercraft. She's seen me do quite a few recently, so that's a high compliment. She said it reminded her of what CATIA can do to flatten things in 3-D. Keep up the good work!
>> Anonymous
>>26587

Another thing I just thought of. Do you know of a way to convert images in Pepakura from RGB to CMYK? I think that would help with the colors on the screen matching the printed image. RGB is generally used for anything with a screen, like a computer, while CMYK is used for printing. There are some colors in both modes that don't convert to the other mode, so colors get substituted.

I'm just remembering things that I had to be anal about in some of my art classes. It was actually pretty funny when I was in graphic design to be in the computer lab where we were all dealing with this problem and the general chaos that ensued, especially when we would start running out of money for the prints. Ah, good times. Good sleep-deprived, manic depressive times...
>> Hunter
>>26610
Your mom does papercraft?
I want to teach my mom cool stuff.
:(
>> Anonymous
>>25914
fix the hair ...(use the alpha in the textures!)