File :-(, x, )
Advice from the experts Anonymous
I just made my first paper craft today, a solid snake, and as im sure alot of peoples firsts were it came out a bloody mess, but cool none the less.

So for my next project I was hoping to actually do things right, so I ask you for advice..

What kinds of glues,paper,techniques do you guys use to make these perfect sculptures I see around here..
>> Anonymous
Check this:
http://www.yamaha-motor.co.jp/global/entertainment/papercraft/howto/index.html
It has some nice tips for the beginner.
>> Anonymous
many thanks annonomous
>> I hate this field too long thing. :-\ Anonymous
Glues: Scotch/3M permanent glue stick for long strips and general construction where fast drying is needed, Elmer's Interior Wood Glue for boxes, seats (when you drop a part into a puddle of it), and general construction where slower drying is needed.

Tapes: Note: These are only for interior support, not construction as is, after the seam has been connected they are used to hold them together while the glue dries or to further reenforce the seam if under tension due to the craft's shape: Cheap tissue paper and aforementioned wood glue, Scotch/3M transparent tape.

Paper: Wausau Exact Index Bright White Super Heavy Cardstock (I use the 160lb and 210 lb, 160 for small parts, 210 for big parts): If you are doing something like the EVA-01 or a zaku, you can get this paper in light purple, pink, or red – which will give your model a fantastic depth of colour when printed.

Scoring tools: embossing styli (for valley folds, lightly score with scalpal then follow with embosser, this will give you the crispest valley fold you'll ever see).
>> Field too long part 2 Anonymous
>>34165

Cutting tools: I use a WWI English military field scalpal, but pretty much a good scalpal blade in a handle that suits you best is the proper choice.

Cutting surface: I cut right on the tabletop or a sheet of glass. Cutting mats are designed for rounded blades and rotary cutters, so they can have a tendency to not give you truly straight lines as the knife's tip meanders in the material.

Sealant: To be applied to entire model or sub-assemblies to protect from ambient moisture and light: Krylon ultra-thick glaze for glass-like surfaces, Krylon stain or matte clearcoat for, of course, stain and matte finishes.

Edge colouring: Get yourself the largest package of dry-tip (hard felt tip) markers you can and use the edge right where it meets the body of the pen in fast motions with the tip facing from the back of the piece to the front so if you slide and get ink on the piece, it is on the white part. For metallic models, get metallic sharpies and use the same method.

Straightedge: YOU MUST get a high quality metal ruler, preferably 14" or 18" (longer than the longest dimension of your paper), with a non-slip CORK backing – believe me, it is worth the extra couple dollars.
>> Anonymous
>>34166
For those of us who don't have access to scalpels, X-acto knives work just fine.
>> Anonymous
>>34230
Though even cheap blades are better than x-acto. Never buy x-acto brand, they are by far the worst out there.