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Anonymous
Scoring. What exactly is it? All I know is you should use an empty ballpoint pen, but what with it and what does it accomplish?
I've just been folding my models and they come out fine. Does scoring just make it easier or something?
>> Anonymous
if you (gently) score the a line before you fold it it will usually better fold the way you want it to be.
>> Anonymous
>> Does scoring just make it easier or something?
Yes. You kinda "scratch" the surface of the paper/cardstock along the fold line, so when you fold it, you will automatically fold along the "scratch" you made. This way you can make very sharp and crisp folds.
You can use an empty ballpoint, but basically anything you want that is a little dull and won't actually tear the paper apart.
On cardstock, you can use your knife to actually cut through the upper layer of the cardstock, but most people don't like white lines on their papercrafts.
>> Anonymous
I'll try a few models with scoring and see how they differ and if it's worth it and such.
Alright, thanks guys!
>> Xydirus
hey, but there's more about scoring, when you score before folding (specially when you are using cardstock) you wont have the "white folding lines", the ones that appear when you have folded and unfodlded too many times the same point, so, in darker parts it's higly recomended
>> Anonymous
Scoring really does help out; I put a metal ruler along straight folds and run a bone folder down the lines. Scoring folds before you even cut out pieces (especially small pieces) helps tremendously.
>> Anonymous
>>96192
bluntish penknife for me
>> Anonymous
I've got a friend who just uses a paperclip -- anything works, as long as you can get it to crease right on the line. A used ballpoint pen or an empty mechanical pencil are extremely easy to aim; just pick the smallest yet dullest object available to you for going over your foldlines.
>> Anonymous
>>96219
So when you score or use light cuts, it's on the outside/face of the paper? The printed/colored side?
>> Anonymous
>>96226
That's easiest yes, since it's easiest to see the fold lines you're trying to score.
But some people take a needle and make tiny holes at both ends of all the fold lines, then turn the paper around and score between the tiny holes.
And some professional papercrafts come pre-printed double sided, with the fold lines on the backside, but usually not downloads from the internet for obvious alignment reasons when printing...
You can do whatever you like: score the front of the back; whatever works best for you.
>> Anonymous
>>96229
>>96226
Personally I score the front for mountain folds and the back for valley folds.
>> Anonymous
I use my pointy tweezers for scoring, the point isn't sharp enough to tear.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
For fucks' sake, get the correct tools, Tool.
Don't fucking score, faggot, be the boss.
>> Anonymous
>>96404
Don't push your ideals, faggot, be your own person.
>> Anonymous
>>96406
You're the cancer that is raping /po/oper.
>> Anonymous
I use the sharp end of a compass
>> Anonymous
I'm using metric wrenches on my 51 Chevy, nuts & bolts keep getting fucked up, I'm a bad mechanic so I blame my tools. I use a fucked up ballpoint pen to shred scores into my papercraft, I'm a bad papercrafter but this tool is correct.
I wonder why so much newdyke can't figure out how to stick it in the /po/oper...
>> Anonymous
it makes it easyer to fold if your using card stock and it also gives you crisper lines.

FAGGOT
>> Anonymous
I just press lightly with an Xacto knife. When making a valley fold, I score the side with the image on it, when making a mountain fold I score the opposite side, first by poking holes on the ends of where the fold is and using a ruler and the Xacto to make a clean score.

And YES the papercraft comes out with much, much sharper, cleaner edges when you score!
>> Anonymous
fucking newfags.

Just crease cleanly and thoroughly, and then reverse fold crease again. auto-score if you're not HURR NURR LETS FOLD THIS INSTEAD