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mark !tHj52jr2fs
hey, i know this is not origami/papercraft/kirigami, but i was wondering if any of you /po/tatoes could give me any tips on making a paper mache (sp?) plague doctor mask using a wooden mold/form. i need it to be smooth too, so any tips on finishing, my friend said a layre of clay on it would work, but any input would help.
>> Topher13mw !rQCcTOnFVc
>>91090
For a nice finish I dont recommend using paper mache but you could use something like Bondo (automotive plaster) or something like that then smooth it down with sandpaper, use a really fine grade, then once you do a nice job on painting it, it will have a nice smooth surface.

>>91095
Now if you want a "quick" mold system you could use regular old housing plaster that you put around a prototype (after the prototype is covered with some type of oil.... I think vegetable oil... but not sure, it has been forever since I did this). Let the mold harden (this might take a few days, it depends on how big the mold is, and how much plaster you use). The score the sides and carefully split the mold so you can easily take out the prototype (you could use small sheets of plastic that you inserted into the plaster when making the mold so that it will split where you want it to). Fix any imperfections with a non-water soluble glue of some kind(this is after you clean the oil off, and it really does not matter what kind of glue just so long that water does not break it down) then let the glue cure. Next is to put the two (or more) pieces of the mold back together and re-oil the mold and fill with plaster (note: if you use the right type of oil the plaster mold and the plaster object will not bond to each other, but will allow the object to cure without issues). Then let the plaster cure and repeat the process with using the mold. It is not that hard once you get the hang of it.
>> Ilucifera
Im from the Netherlands here u can get it in every Diy store aint cheap though
paper mache dirt cheap just wallpaper paste and newspaper (maybe U have friend who works in car bodyshop?) Ask in a hobby/craft shop maybe they have something that does the job?
Ps dont forget to cover your mold very very well before u cover it whith whatever u re gonna use
>> Topher13mw !rQCcTOnFVc
>>91109
I live in the USA, and my family is one of those that will not give a car to the mechanic unless there is no other choice, that includes bodywork. Thus we have stuff like Bondo sitting around the garage.
>> mark !tHj52jr2fs
thanks comrades, ill take these into mind for my mask.
>> mark !tHj52jr2fs
hey, could someone screencap this thread into a jpeg?
>> Jen
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If you're using Firefox, there's an addon called Screengrab that works nicely to capture everything on a page in an image format. I forget whether it saves in jpg gif or png.

In my sculpture class we're making molds for our clay sculptures. We're supposed to paint the clay version with polyurethane when the clay is leather hard, then after the coat dries, we do some work with clear silicone caulking to cover the clay version. Then we cast a plaster mold to make sure the liquid that gets poured inside the silicone mold does not push the silicone mold into an undesirable shape.
>> Jen
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These sites look like they might help with some information. The mold I was talking about before is a clay blanket mold. The plaster mold is called something like the mother shell or whatnot.

http://www.keropiansculpture.com/rubbermolds.html
http://www.resincasting.co.uk/
http://www.machinegraphics.com/speedy/molds.html

and this one is for dick blick artist supply online
http://www.dickblick.com/categories/moldingcasting/

Pic is a screencap of thread. It's a png instead of a jpeg, but I know you'll find a way to survive.
>> mark !tHj52jr2fs
>>91237
thank you!i owe you!
ill look into those sites.
>>91236
i have the screengrab on my other compy. i need to dl it onto this one too. link maybe?
>> mark !tHj52jr2fs
wait, i looked it up, screengrab that is
>> casting paper Ewic
Tuck Langland, in his book, From Clay to Bronze, has a chapter on casting in materials other than metal. He spends about a page or so (pp. 112,113) going into detail about casting in paper using paper pulp in a plaster mold. Plaster, of course, will wick out a great deal of moisture. I think this would be preferable over a silly-cone mold with a plaster mother mold, because the water from your wet medium can't go anywhere if it is in a rubber mold. I would only use silicone molds for materials that solidify or cure on their own, e.g. plastic or plaster or wax, & c. Tuck mentions that it is easier to do paper casting as a relief. Perhaps you could mold your mask in sections and glue the pieces together.

Tuck's general procedure is to lay the pulp (in your case, papier mache, which may have less water) into the mold and alternately stipple the material into the nooks and crannies with a short, stiff brush (such as a stencil brush), and remove the excess moisture by patting the material with a sponge. When it looks fairly dry, you fill the whole thing with a pile of glass marbles so the paper doesn't curl up as it dries.

As far as making your mold, it would have to be a multipart mold anyways, with keys in between the sections so that the parts line up. Dinnae forget to seal your prototype model properly and apply a mold release, so you can pry the mold sections off of it.


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