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Anonymous
Is it okay to stick with A4 paper, or should I move on to 90-110 lb cardstock?

If I should move on, is there a specific brand that I should try, and how much would it normally cost?
>> Anonymous
...The designation "A4" has nothing to do with the weight.

It's a size. A faggy, commie-pinko European paper size.

You can get 110 lb card stock in A4.
>> Anonymous
try using cereal boxes. do not cut them, if you don't print over the assembled box you won't get anything.
oh, and "googleing" once in a while haven't killed anybody yet, and makes more comfortable to answer when you get asekd something like "i want to do a simple and small papercraft, should I use this or that?" instead of "what to use"?
dick
>> TSONTS !!u7H15vJR6mX
It's all up to you on what paper you use; if you want them to be sturdier or wearable, go to card.

No specific brand. Price varies from company to company (and country to country), you can find a non-brand name version in department stores, Wal-Mart, etc, and save a bit, probably.
>> Anonymous
>>109497
Yep, A4 just means 8.3 x 11.7 inches.

And I agree it's faggy, but since a lot of Japanese models use it, I'm finding myself buying it more and more. Grrrrr... long paper is long.
>> Anonymous
Stick with letter size, A4 is eurogay

and 70/110lb for simple models, but its a bitch with more complex ones
>> Anonymous
>>109499

Thank you :D

I'm thinking to use cardstock for the gungrave papercraft.
>> Anonymous
http://www.officedepot.com/a/browse/cover-and-card-stock/Nr=200000&N=200888/

Crap. I'm stuck on which lb paper to use. 90 lb or 110 lb? Which one is easier to fold? Print on? Other retarded questions like that.
>> TSONTS !!u7H15vJR6mX
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The heavier the paper, the more likely it might not go through your printer... but unless you have a crappy printer, 110 should go through just fine.

As for folding, extremely small pieces will require extra care the heavier your paper -- score the fold lines first. If you try to fold by hand and the crease misses the line, it's a lot harder to work with the piece with heavier paper.

Also, since your paper is thicker, invest in some felt-tip markers or colored pencils. You're going to end up with white edges even if you spend an insane amount of time and effort trying to avoid them.
>> Anonymous
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found original
>> Anonymous
>>109521
One thing I don't think people realize is how big that head is. It's about the height of the tip of your index finger to the first bend of your index finger. Felt-tipped markers are way too big to be used on something like that, you'll end up messing up the whole thing.
>> Anonymous
>>109534
fine point.
>> Anonymous
>>109534
You marker by rubbing the edge and from the underside. Try building a model before commenting.
>> Anonymous
I've markered the edges of pieces so small they barely fit in the jaws of the hemostat. Finetip marker and your choice of hemostat, tweezers or pliers.
>> Anonymous
>>109539
Sorry, I had a moment of stupid. Of course I'm so stupid I probably wouldn't have figured it out anyway, but coloring before building seems so fucking obvious it makes me want to shoot myself.

And to make matters worse, I've made a total of 59 models. :(
>> Anonymous
>>109521
What model is that?
>> TSONTS !!u7H15vJR6mX
http://rapidshare.com/files/44341869/Haruhi.rar

The haruhi-pn.pdo (lineless) inside is the best to build it with... but open the haruhi-pa.pdo (lined) file while building to use as a reference.
>> Anonymous
ITT: Stupid Americans and their hatred towards superior european mesuremeants.