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Anonymous
Calling on the /po/ weeaboos here. Can anyone tell me what the symbols are on this here Mudkip crease pattern? They should be body parts, legs, tail, head, etc., so it shouldn't be too hard. Thanks in advance.
>> Anonymous
I don't really get crease patterns, but dashed lines are usually valley folds, so that would mean the solid lines are mountain folds I guess?
Origami is okay as long as you have a step by step guide of how to make all the folds, then most people can follow, but if it's just a crease pattern, it's a whole different story... ;)
>> Fugly-kun !3LrT5NRVks
the dot in the middle says "HEAD"

the upper right is front legs
and the mid right is back legs

bottom right is tail..
>> Anonymous
>>73956
Thank you. Am I to assume correctly that the one at the top near the left is the cheek fin things?
>> Anonymous
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>>74017
Also, are there any more shots of it? All I have is this.
>> Anonymous
That's Miyamoto Shintaro's design, so you can try checking his website: http://www.comic-folder.sakura.ne.jp/top.index.html (He's got a lot more)

By the way, that is not a properly flat-foldable crease pattern. (Easy way to tell is that if there are interior crease intersections with an odd number of creases it's not flat-foldable. There are other rules, but this is the most obvious)

Anyhow, the thing in the middle is that fin thing on top of its head, the head comes from the top left corner (that's the color-changed lower jaw). The whiskers or whatever are formed from those little flaps just to the right. Continuing to the right, the Japanese text is right by the point that makes the front foot. Now if you go down the right edge, the next set of Jap text marks the back foot. And finally the tail is pretty obvious--bottom right corner.
>> Anonymous
>>74038
Thanks, that helps. Are there any other tips you can give me?
>> Anonymous
>>74044

Not really, just know that there is a lot of work that needs to be done to get from the base to the finished model; Like reverse folding the lower jaw and pulling out the layers from the fin, color-changing and shortening the tail, etc.
>> Anonymous
>>74063
Thanks for that, and I assumed as much. Thing is, I can't even figure out how to collapse it. I assume I start on the fin, but nothing seems to want to hold together. Can you suggest an angle of attackm perhaps an order to collapse certain creases in?
>> Anonymous
>>74065
foil
>> Anonymous
>>74068
Anything else, such as a starting point, or order to collapse the creases in? Perhaps a traditional base, or other type, to start with?
>> Anonymous
>>74077
?
>> Anonymous
>>74080
After I put all the creases on the paper, how do I go about folding that paper into the base? Should I start folding at one of the corners, a certain point in the middle of the paper, or is there a base, like a preliminary base or waterbomb base, that I can fold first and then fold the paper into the collapsed CP?
>> Anonymous
>>74089
?
>> Anonymous
>>74077

Not really, it's based on an 8x8 grid, and is effectively box-pleated.

As I mentioned before, it's not a very good crease pattern. Anyhow, I usually start with the biggest creases, which tend to be more important structurally. So start with the really big creases, then do that awkward fin. Then go for the legs and finally the head. Once everything is collapsed, the shaping can go in any order.
>> Anonymous
>>74094
I found that it is on a grid. Can I start by pleat sinking a base or something?
>> Jen
>>74107

The crease pattern is showing how to get the piece of paper into a base. It doesn't show how to get the mudkip into its final form. It just shows how to get all the parts in order.

This crease pattern is based on an 8x8 grid. The person who created this CP does not reference the fold lines of the grid unless they will be used later in collapsing the paper into the base that is used to create the mudkip. To further give clues on how to make the paper collapse into a base, there are two types of lines. As someone else stated earlier, the dotted lines are probably valley folds, and the solid lines are probably mountain folds. The first fold to make that's shown on the CP is the diagonal from the top left to the bottom right. Everything is mirrored in the CP over that diagonal, so you can fold it and then figure out all of the other folds from there.
>> Anonymous
>>74135
I knew all that from the beginning. I have a sheet of paper with all the creases in place, my only problem is tyring to figure out where to start collapsing the paper. With the pleat sinking idea, I was thinking of folding a base, pleat sinking it, and modifying it to the mudkip base. I was asking if any base could be made to put this idea into action. Otherwise, I would like advice on where to start collapsing the paper, and how to dael with folding the fin. I can't seem to grasp how it should be done, and I feel as if that is holding me bakc. Even though your post didn't help me, I thank you for your help.
>> Anonymous
>>74169

No, you can't (at least not in an obvious way) just start with a base and pleat-sink.

In general, for crease patterns there are three steps:

Step 1: Make all the creases
Step 2: Collapse.
Step 3: Finish

Most of us, when we create something from crease pattern we fold it as if we're collapsing the crease pattern every time. Even if we've found an alternate way to diagram it. Unless we're teaching.

And sorry, I can't stand looking at that crease pattern. There are so many errors and it's a disaster to fold. Here are some hints though:

In that fin point, there is a long valley fold going through it, that stays a valley the whole way. Look at the creases around it. Note how they are exactly mirrored and of the opposite gender (mountains become valleys and vice versa). this means that you fold along the valley first, and then make folds through both layers together.

About it not wanting to hold together, that is because it is not flat-foldable at all. Not flat-foldable means 3D, and 3D doesn't hold unless it uses paper tension or locks.

The best thing really would be for someone else to design one. It's not that hard.

Short version: This CP sucks. And when you collapse a CP you don't do it step by step from a base or anything, you just do it.