File :-(, x, )
Moving gun models? Anonymous
How many are out there, /po/? This is the only one I know of.

(before the newbies ask, http://rapidshare.com/files/14524742/LIFESIZED_PROP_REPLICAS_Gungrave_advanced_gun.rar.html (there aren't any instructions anywhere))
>> Anonymous
There's the flying pig one. And the clock. And sexy hips prime. But that's about it, I think.
>> Anonymous
>>69708
There are LOTS of paper automata (that's "the term" for moving paper models, especially "the Flying Pig one" where you need to turn a handle to make the model move) but not so many moving GUN models.
>> Anonymous
>>69704
You know, I'm working on that one. It really isn't that hard of a model. I'll start working on it one day eventually though. Just need to finish my college prep stuff. |:
>> Anonymous
>>69704
You know, I'm working on that one. It really isn't that hard of a model. I'll start working on it again one day eventually though. Just need to finish my college prep stuff. |:
>> Anonymous
I was thinking of modifying Alucard's Cassul/Jackal to do this.. but I'd need to make this one first.
>> Anonymous
I hope you manage to make instructions of how to make this properly
>> Anonymous
>>69704

If anyone has the instructions in Korean, I can translate the moonspeak for you.
>> Anonymous
>>69781
Wow! A moonspeaker! I thought we'd never find one on this board. Be prepared for a flood of requests.
>> Anonymous
>>69784

Oh dear lawd. Shall I even get meself a tripcode for extra faggotry? I lurk here quite often though.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
Well I've downloaded the stupid thing, and that's what the precious few moonspeak says. Apparently you need a rubber band.
>> Anonymous
>>69786

ooh, thankyou. That's helpful.

So this is the only moving gun model in existence? *sigh*
>> Anonymous
So awesome. That gun kicks ass.
>> Anonymous
>>69919
OP here, printing as we speak. :D Since sleep is for the weak, I'll hopefully have it done today or tommorow.
>> Anonymous
most of the kamikuzu guns have moving parts but not as intricate as the gungrave gun
>> Anonymous
>>69925

ooh, such as?

a moving revolver would kick ass.
>> Anonymous
>>69921

Grrr, cutting out 15 pages of intricate tabs and bits takes ages. x.x
>> Anonymous
>>69969
you're not cutting it out all at once are you??!?!?!!
>> Anonymous
>>69971

yes!?!?!?!?!

Is that wrong? >.>
>> Anonymous
>>70031
YES very. Parts will be all over the place and, stuff just gets mixed up. besides as you can probably tell it gets boring doing the same thing all at once, you should do it cut piece 1, cut piece 2, score pieces, glue pieces together, continue to piece 3, etc...
that way you don't get bored on a single task.
>> Anonymous
>>70035
Shouldn't you score first?
>> Anonymous
>>70051
Yes.

Score, cut, fold, glue.
>> Anonymous
>>70053
whatever, but you still shouldn't cut out all the pieces at once. amirite?
>> Anonymous
>>70055
Nope.

I prefer doing an entire page at one time though. Glue everything that can be together, and set them aside with the page they were cut out from. Move onto the next page, rinse and repeat.
>> Anonymous
>>70061
but that's still not all 15 pages cut out at once!
>> Anonymous
>>70035

yah, your way is better, anon. I realised the error of my ways and have started doing it according to the numbers, a couple of pieces at a time. The ones I'd already cut I can figure out from the .pdf.

The lower barrel is 100% done. Pics in the morning, since it's now 4am.
>> Anonymous
>>69786
Mr. Koreanonymous,

Would you please translate the text on pages 14 and 15?
I spent about 20 minutes lurking google and found the exact (or close to) characters and had babelfish translate them (came out to "Hard board Ji"). I figured the last 2 pages were meant for a hard surface, but that "Ji" is making me curious, is there any significance to it?

I just want to be sure before I go out and buy some hardboard.. actually, I'll probably just use cardboard.
>> Anonymous
I can't wait for somebody to make instructions, It will be really helpful when they are done.
>> Anonymous
has anybody here besides me actually watched Gungrave?
>> Anonymous
I have its great!!
>> Anonymous
>>70333
what u mean like the dvd?
>> Anonymous
>>70329
I dunno, it seems pretty straight forward to me. All of the parts are numbered, fold lines, even images showing it complete and partially so.
>> Anonymous
the problem everybody is haviing mate is that we don't know what number goes to what part.
>> Anonymous
>>70337

Usually the piece right next to it..
>> Anonymous
I would prefer to waiting for instructions
>> Anonymous
>>70339

same here, i attempted to make it a while back and only got as far as gluing the crosses together and beyond that point i was like HUH! instructions would be extremely helpful and appreciated.
>> Anonymous
>>70338
>>70343
Well, I have free time now (>>69721) so I guess I'll work on finishing it. I could probably get it done by tomorrow night. Just need to get a rubber band and some cardboard or poster board.

I don't really know how much help I would be as far as instructions go, but I could always post pictures and try my best to explain.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
okay, OP here.. I've found a piece that doesn't seem to be on the OP gif, or pics that come with it. I think it's the hammer of the gun. Any ideas where it is on the gif or other pics? It's confusing.
>> Anonymous
>>70373

dude, if you were to make instructions or even take better pics of the construction process you would be worshipped on this board......well by me at least I can't speak for everybody
>> Anonymous
>>70378
Maybe because from the looks of it, the placement would mean it would block the part that slides back?
>> Anonymous
>>70381

so do I leave this bit out or something? >>
>> Anonymous
>>70383
Dunno, haven't built it myself.
Here's what you do:
build it with the part, and if it turns out is IS indeed in the way: remove it.
If it isn't in the way: don't remove it. ;)
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>70383

they're definitely in the original design.
>> Anonymous
>>70379
Well, I couldn't take pictures of the construction process, considering how far I am. But, I could always make another one, since>>70385just showed me there are two guns (I've never watched this anime, probably never will).
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
op here, hope these help anyone else.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
Still haven't figured out wtf piece no.14 is, maybe>>70398could tell me?

Anyway, will keep taking pics.
>> Anonymous
>>70399


you are a god among men sir. thanks dude
>> Anonymous
>>70398
Play the games, that's what the guns are actually based off of. The first one will only take you at the most 2 hours to finish, so yeah. It's a good game though.
>> Anonymous
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>>70401
Could you post a clear shot of this image? Perhaps from an angle (think isometric). The front looks like it's popping outwards?
When I made that piece, I put mine inwards. Now I'm curious if I did it wrong, lulz.
>>70403
And I believe 14 is the rear-sight on the gun. Showing what I believe to be piece 16 as well.

I'm>>70398in case it wasn't obvious enough.
>> Anonymous
>>70417

70401 is the bottom barrel, rather than the (moving) top piece.

14 still looks like the hammer on the back of the design pic to me.. 16 looks more likely to be the sight though, yes.
>> Anonymous
>>70420
>>70417

Oh, I get what you mean now. Yeah, I put mine a little inside the barrel, as a matter of personal preferance. Couldn't make out which way it was meant to be.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>70421
>>70420
>>70417

Looks like the designer took some creative licence with it, as niether would be correct from this shot.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>70421
Lulz, you made me delete my reply. 0:<

But yeah, okay. I'll try and snag my sister's camera when she wakes up so I can take some pictures of my own.

>>70417
>>70420
>>70421
>>70423
Well, here's a quick image I did to show how I'm seeing yours, and mine compared to it.
>> Anonymous
>>70326

There were pages 14 and 15? I only downloaded the zip OP provided. Give me the link, or just post the image at least, and I'll see what you're talking about.
>> Anonymous
>>70427

yes, that's how I did mine.

And yeep, I think your way is right. I'll have to pry off and invert mine.
>> Anonymous
>>70428here,

In that instance, "ji" means paper.

it's made of matte cardboard - my local paper calls it "ivory board" lol.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>70428
Yeop, here's the PDF itself.
>> Anonymous
>>70431
Good luck with that. I hate when I mess up, prying pieces off looks ugly when you re-apply them, so I normally end up re-printing the whole thing.

>>70432
Ah, alright. I think I know where I can get some of that.
>>70434
>> Anonymous
>>70434

that's pretty funny. I thought you meant "mabunji" which means "cardboard"

No - it's stronger than that. Koreans call "hardboard" basically artists' paper - roughly equivalent to a 250gsm craft board.
>> Anonymous
>>70440

erk, I'm just using basic printing paper.
>> Anonymous
>>70448
It should be sort of fine, only the last 2 pages are supposed to be printed with it, I think, considering they're the only pages with it on them.
Though, basic printer paper for a model this size might not be very stable. I can see it denting very easily.
>> Anonymous
>>70450

I'm going to paint it, so that should give it a little more stability and hold it together better.
>> Anonymous
>>70454
depends on the kind of paint you're using.
>> Anonymous
>>70456

acrylic.
>> Anonymous
>>70458
You mean like the dollar store brand?
>> Anonymous
>>70459

No, I use proper art stuff.
>> Anonymous
>>70465
OK good. cause i tried using that dollar store stuff hoping that it would have the desired effect. it had the opposite effect.
>> Anonymous
>>70466

howso? It collapsed?
>> Anonymous
>>70467
yes and it also caused the same problem as when paper gets wet. it warped, and made it weaker not stronger.
>> Anonymous
>>70440
is gsm the same as g/m²?
>> Anonymous
>>70465
enamel is your best bet for strength. and a couple coats of spray on laquer
>> Anonymous
from the looks of ur first pic showing the parts together, it looks like you cut that lil circle in part 1 out, do you need to do this?
>> Anonymous
>>70492

is enamel what will strengthen the paper and make the colors more vivid and darker?
>> Anonymous
>>70493
I don't think you do, no. At least, I didn't.
>> Anonymous
>>70491
Is.
>> Anonymous
>>70491
Yes, g/m² means grams per square meter and gsm are the first letters of the words (well, without the p for per, but that's like United States of America and USA)
>> Anonymous
>>70491
Yes, it is. I assume you're trying to convert weight.
http://www.paper-paper.com/weight.html
>> Anonymous
>>70501
Don't think he is trying to convert paper weights, I think everybody here is talking about gsm and when he goes to look in stores it says g/m^2, so he wanted to know if it's the same.
If you want to convert between gsm and lbs you need to know that the US lbs system doesn't take into account how big the paper is (and that's kinda important).
For papercraft, you want the answer under "index":
160 gsm cardstock will make about 90 lbs
200 gsm is about 110 lbs
regular printer paper of 80 gsm is about 45 lbs
Use http://www.hagadoneprinting.com/4dlink/4daction/paperWeightConverter
>> Anonymous
>>70510
Hmm.. If 250gsm is supposed to be equal to 138/140lb, that doesn't seem right to me, since in>>69704, the trigger looks thicker than that. The template also doesn't show any extra pieces for it either. So now I'm confused.
>> Anonymous
where does one buy this card stock, local card place? how much??
>> Anonymous
>>70517
staples or other office supply stores
>> Anonymous
>>70515
That's the whole problem with the US paper weight system... When you're talking about paper (or cardstock) you get different answer on wether you mean cover, index, etc...
For papercraft cardstock, it seems you should look for index paper.

But when you're looking for cardboard/carton/really thick (millimeter or thicker for example) "cardstock", that's stuff that's not meant for printers. So it's not really logical/necessary to use the "index-table" for that anymore; you don't buy it in index size, you buy it in much bigger size, you buy it in whole boards... It doesn't apply anymore, and I'm sorry to say, I don't know where you should look to convert that properly. It would be much easier to say 1 mm thick cardboard, or 2 mm thick. That's stuff you can measure in mm (unlike paper and cardstock).
It needs to be very sturdy (it's for the mechanism, right?) so use what thickness you think is best.
>> Anonymous
>>70517
I get my cardstock from Copy Max.
They don't sell A4 where I am, so I purchase a ream of legal (250 sheets) and have them cut it down to A4 (8.27x11.69). The ream costs me 13.75-14.00 and the cuts are 99cents each, so it comes out to about 17 dollars.
>> Anonymous
>>70517
Where do you buy your regular printer paper?
Ask there if they know about cardstock. If they sell paper, they'll know.
If for some reason they don't, go to another store where they sell paper and ask again.
Repeat until you get an answer.
Don't be afraid to ask.
>> Anonymous
>>70523
Yeah, the mechanism, last 2 pages. I was thinking of going to the local art supply and buying this board that's popular for kids in school. But it's more of a foam, with a layer of paper on both sides, so I don't know if it would be the best thing to buy.

And even though it can't be run through printers, I printed the pages onto normal cardstock, so I could just trace it, or glue it and re-cut.
>> Anonymous
>>70524
You got ripped of, a ream is 500 sheets. ;)
That's what they do in the US: weigh one ream of paper, and that's the paper weight in lbs.
But the sheets could be as small as a stamp, or as big as a football field.
You see where the different answers come from.
>> Anonymous
>>70527
Also, sometimes I hate how the U.S. manages these things. I wouldn't care at all if it weren't for the fact it makes my hobbies harder. ):<
>> Anonymous
>>70529
They didn't have any cardstock in a ream larger than 250 sheets. Only their regular printing paper was 500 sheets.
>> Anonymous
>>70527And even though it can't be run through printers, I printed the pages onto normal cardstock, so I could just trace it, or glue it and re-cut.
I think that's the best way to do this. Although if you were REALLY Smart, you would have printed the last two pages on normal paper, would have saved you two pages of cardstock, which are more expensive. ;)

And I think you're right about the foamboard: I think it would be better to use carton/cardboard (but cardboard makes me think about corrugated cardboard, and I wouldn't use that!!) or posterboard: where it's basically made of thinners cardstock sheets glued together, as in no foam core. Just seems stronger, but I haven't built it, so maybe foamboard will do, I just really don't know.

>>70530
Well for most formal/official documents, especially international ones, they tend to use the systems that the rest of the world uses. It's just in average day life the US people still use letter size paper and such.
Maybe, one day, papercraft will get rid of our differences!! (single tear falls from my eye)
>> Anonymous
just attempting the mudkip though i realised how hard spherical/ circular objects can be is it practical to create such objects with thicker paper or is it easier with thinner?
>> Anonymous
>>70531
lol I'm not saying you should have bought 500 sheets instead of 250, 250 sheets should last you quite a while since most papercrafts are 1-5 pages, some are around 10, and only a few (like the Eva's and such) are 50+. And before you'll have cut, scored and folded and glued all the parts that fit on 250 sheets of paper... This thread will long have been bumped of the board... ;)
I'm just saying that a "real" ream is 500 pages, it's the "standard" of the US paper system. But what's in a name?
>> Anonymous
>>70538
Doesn't really matter. Before glueing the glueing flaps together, curl the paper around a small rond, or in the palm of your hand in the direction it should be curling. It will remove the tension in the paper: the paper will almost automatically take the shape it will need to be when you glue it together.
You'll get the hang of it after a few times.
>> Anonymous
>>70539
a rose
>> Anonymous
>>70540

cheers mate that was actually the first of my two questions, the second well - every closed off paper craft has a final side/wall/ whatever how does one do this final side. it cannot be held together like a regular side since the rest of the sides are closed off, the best i can do is stick a toothpick in and hold it semi closed or shut it with tape and then glue the gap, what is annons answer?
>> Anonymous
>>70558
I don't know. who's annon?
>> Anonymous
>>70558
After scoring, you usually fold the tab backwards. Don't on the last one, so that it presses out, against the wall of the "box" you're trying to close.
Also, the best technique is not to put the glue on the glueing tab in these cases, but put the glue along the edge of the box.
It's explained in Yamaha's papercraft tutorial:
http://www.yamaha-motor.co.jp/global/entertainment/papercraft/howto/index.html
Basic Instructions > Gluing > Tip 3.
>> Anonymous
>>70567

thanks heaps mate, i don't want to become soft but i do appreciate this anons generosity, have a very good day to you sir!
>> Anonymous
excellent keep the progress going
>> ANONyMOUSe
     File :-(, x)
I just grave's glasses.
It's a filmcraft.
>> ANONyMOUSe
*found
>> Anonymous
>>70665
isn't that cute. the newfag thinks he's posting new material.
>> Anonymous
>>70671

no need to bitch, this is one of the friendliest boards on 4chan.
>> Cotton Eyed Joe
>>70678
except for when you throw hard-ass /b/tards into the mix
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
this is my first time posting, so sorry if i do something wrong.

i've been working on this for a little while, and i think i can help a bit.
my trigger mechanism was completely improvised except for the shapes of the pieces inside, and it works perfectly fine.
i'm going to use the original pictures as reference since i didn't take pictures early enough in the process.
hope that helps. i'll post more pictures later maybe. i think i may be about 60% done, but at least the hard part (the mechanism) is done.
>> Anonymous
excellent, can't wait to see the rest of how you are doing. hope you can make instructions
>> Anonymous
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So, I have all of the pieces (minus the last 2 pages) cut out and built. So, I was testing all of the parts to make sure I didn't mess anything up, when I noticed this (see image).
Anyone know how the hell this is supposed to work?

Notice the red piece only has a hole on the bottom, but at the same time the sample image shows the green piece obviously inside of it. Another strange thing is that the animated gif in>>69704seems to be as though the red piece overlaps both sides, which couldn't be possible with the piece given in the .pdf. Only the bottom as the overlapping edges.