File :-(, x, )
Good size? Anonymous
I'm making a papercraft but I'm in dubio about what size I will make it.

I'm testbuilding it not too big, about 20 cm on three pages. It's proving not too difficult for me, but often people will say: "this is too difficult!!" while I would find it easy.
An easy and good way to make it easier would make the papercraft twice as big (40 cm) or maybe 30 cm. Some of the tabs are now only 3-4 mm (although personally I don't find that too small).

The 20 cm testbuild is turning out quite a nice size, but of course it's more important to me that many people will be able to build it, even if it just means it will come on more sheets and be twice as big.
>> Anonymous
So uh... what is it?
>> Anonymous
>>104473
/po/ is a slow board, etc.


Most files are A4/letter size rwady.
>> Anonymous
>>104473
A character, but I won't tell the exact name, else /po/eple will start talking about how they like/hate the character while I'd like them to focus on the question. ;)
>> Anonymous
>>104474
You misunderstood, I'm not talking about the size of the template, but about the size of the finished papercraft. ;)
>> Anonymous
>>104474
I, meaning>>104473
was not the OP. I was just asking what he was making.

And>>104475
gotcha. I know what a shitstorm /po/ can be.
>> Anonymous
>>104701
Either Anon wants instructions (in which case, it's spelled "manual" with an A), or he's looking for his Latino friend Manuel. Either way, here's hoping his Google search is not in vain.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>104649

Head to hair / hat was a bit of a problem. Can see small gaps. I don't think printing any larger than A4 or Letter would have really helped those.

I think it's more. . having built something once and realizing exactly how it works, you could then rebuild it better, if you wanted to take the time.
>> Anonymous
make it huge. people can always scale it down to their liking.
>> To sage or not to sage... that is the question. !!u7H15vJR6mX
Once I've built a model once, I often enlarge or reduce it depending on the difficulty level and the finished product's difficulty.

3-4 mm tabs aren't USUALLY a problem. However, if you have a bunch of tiny polygon faces and tabs, mountain and valley folds, and unclear (or no) instructions, size helps.

If it weren't for the instructions on Neneko, I doubt I'd have been able to put it together. With them, though, the scale was right size; there was no need to enlarge.

As long as your instructions are clear, go for 20 cm. You can always leave the .pdo unlocked if you release the PDO, letting others edit or resize your work.
>> To sage or not to sage... that is the question. !!u7H15vJR6mX
Oops. 1st sentence should say "finished product's size".

I'll enlarge models if I want them bigger, or reduce them if I want them smaller. Changing the size also lends itself to certain papers; really small models tend towards regular paper, larger towards cardstock.

Bonus points for>>104763for somehow getting that figure together with what looks to be light cardstock and still be presentable. Neneko was copy paper all the way for me...
>> Anonymous
>>104771However, if you have a bunch of tiny polygon faces and tabs
That's a bit of a question. Some parts are small, but other parts are big in comparison. So to make the small parts big, the big parts turn huge... I did the 20 cm testbuild, and did a few parts in 30 cm scale after that. In my opinion, the big parts turn out too huge, so I'm going for the 20 cm version, which fits efficient on the templates, and is a very nice size when assembled.