File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
is there a special technique to folding other than just using my hands cause i noticed ever since i've switched to 110lb card stock the folding tends to be rather sloppy =/
>> ANON !!h3KpZcKKNah
I use a bonefolder - bit strange to use at first but does give sharp creases.
>> Anonymous
i use 110lb as well and i fold tabs over a metal ruler, gives pretty precise folds, just gets laborious sometimes
>> Anon
Just use the sharp edge of your scissors, to give sharp creases to tabs, fold lines, etc. They are already in your hand, after all.
>> Anon
Just use the shap edge of the scissors.
>> Anonymous
scource for orignal image?!
>> Anonymous
>>84421
See>>83747
>> Anonymous
>>84424
the site dont have template.
>> Anonymous
Site clearly marked "COMING SOON" -- figured if you saw that, you'd bookmark it and go back until they released the template.

Guess I gave you too much credit.
>> Anonymous
>>84438
In>>84421you asked for the site with the image. You got what you asked for.
>> Anonymous
>>84421
>>84438
>>84440
same person
>> Anonymous
you could get one of those scoring wheels, they look kind of like a pizza cutter but they're blunt enough not to cut through the paper :) make a nice precise line for folding.
>> Anonymous
I have a question about scoring-
The majority of the folds are mountain folds, which need scoring on the back side of the paper, where you can't see the line clearly. The only decent method I have so far is to do it in front of a strong light source, which causes a lot of issues and takes so much time that I usually just crease them normally.
Is there a better method for this?
>> Anonymous
>>84538
Mountain folds require scoring on the backside? I've never heard of this, nor have I ever done it. I've always scored the surfaces, no matter what kind of fold.
>> Anonymous
>>84538
Personally, I don't really care about seeing white edges on my models, showing that they're made from paper, so I just score on the front.
But that's because I just use my X-Acto to actuallu cut through the upper layer. If you use something blunt (like a dead ballpoint that REALLY doesn't write anymore or the tip of a mechanical pencil like on the Yamaha site, you won't actually cut though the paper, just dent it, and the color won't be gone at the fold line: most white edges are from the lines you CUT, and there's nothing to prevent that really, excpet using colored cardstock. Or you can touch these edges up with a felt pen, if you really want to...

Some companies like 3DPaper actually print their kits doublesided, with the fold lines on the backside.
But the vast majority of models on the internet doesn't have that of course. So you can do what you do, or some people take a needle or something, and make a tiny hole at both ends of the fold line. Since a fold line always ends at an edge (I mean not in the middle of the part) you can always make the holes outside the part so they won't show. And then you can flip it over, and score between the holes you made using a ruler to guide you.
But it's quite time consuming of course, and personally, like I said: even with some white edges showing my papercrafts look great. ;)