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N.C.F.
Ok /P/hotographers, as a total noob i'm going filter shopping tomorrow to pick up my first few filters. I need some solid recommendations, possibly some direct links if you can. Repeat, I am a noob.

Camera is a Nikon D40x, if that makes any difference.

Pic unrelated.
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATIONCamera ModelNIKON D40XCamera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS3 MacintoshMaximum Lens Aperturef/4.3Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern754Focal Length (35mm Equiv)129 mmImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution240 dpiVertical Resolution240 dpiImage Created2007:07:23 15:16:05Exposure Time1/320 secF-Numberf/4.5Exposure ProgramNot DefinedISO Speed Rating200Lens Aperturef/4.5Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePatternLight SourceUnknownFlashNo FlashFocal Length86.00 mmColor Space InformationUncalibratedImage Width1500Image Height1004RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypePortraitGain ControlNoneContrastNormalSaturationNormalSharpnessSoftSubject Distance RangeUnknown
>> N.C.F.
And god dangit that photo got raped by jpeg compression... ugh... excuse it please. It looks so much better full size.
>> Anonymous
neutral density filters are good for long exposures, but only if you're into that stuff.

Split neutral density filters are great for combining a bright sky and dark foreground (think in-camera HDR).

Polarizers are awesome for minimizing reflections, glare, etc. Must have.

Other than that, white balance has made most color correction filters obsolete, but you might consider picking up both a warming and cooling filter for ease of use.

The big problem is, filters can get really expensive really quickly. So if there were any must-haves, I would say a polarizer and maybe a split-ND or two.

You also need to know what the thread size is for your lenses.
>> N.C.F.
And how would I go about that.

Lenses i have are the Nikon kit lens, 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 and also a Nikkor 55-200 f/4-5.6

Can the camera gods ever forgive me.
>> elf_man !fBgo7jDjms
It says it on the front of the lens. Those are both 52mm lenses.
>> Macheath !8b4g0BkNZg
Definitely get a polarizer. You might as well call it a "make the sky look less shitty" filter.
>> Anonymous
You dont ever, ever really need a filter. Ever.
>> Anonymous
>>64334
Try Emulating an ND Gradient Filter (handheld), a Polarizing filter, or Infrared. Good luck fool!
Also plain ND filters work wonders aswell, but are partly emulatable.
>> N.C.F.
Any specific brands, better than others?
>> Chucky Shitchips !!gA7JZaCZdKK
Get a polarizer and, if you have the money, a neutral density filter. DO NOT GET A UV FILTER. UV filters are a TOTAL waste of money. They do absolutely nothing. Salespeople tout them for "protecting the lens" but this is unnecessary. If you drop your lens, it's likely fucked no matter how many filters are on them. Additionally, it's not coated with anti glare coatings like the front of your lens will be.

Keep this in mind. Filters are expensive. Don't buy a whole assload of them because later when you change your lens, the thread will likely be different and you'll have to re-buy ones for your newer lens.

Circular Polarizer and, if you can Neutral Density. Don't let anybody else talk you into anything else. Also don't buy a shitty brand.
>> N.C.F.
Like?

Nikon's i trust, anyone else?
>> Anonymous !MjcMqTX/iM
>>64375
UV filter for protection is very very useful. Not for dropping, but for scratches etcetera. I'd rather have a scratch on my UV then on my IR filter, or polarizer.
>> Anonymous
Polarizing 52mm filters from HOYA. Probably ebay.com
>> Anonymous
Hoya filters are great, Kenko are okay. Nikon/Canon are expensive, but decent. Then at the top of the range there's B+W.

The UV or no UV debate will never be solved, but if you're not an idiot and want a UV filter you'd buy a multicoated one.
>> Anonyfag of Borneo !bHymOqU5YY
>>64375
I got a UV filter because people, branches and bushes tend to get in the way.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
I refuse to go anywhere without a polarizing filter. They're god sends.
>> des
There's two kinds of photographers just like there are two kinds of bikers; those who have gone down and those who are about to go down.
After you've scratched or cracked your first front element, you'll start using a protective filter.
If you move slow enough to think you don't need one, at least use metal screw-in lens caps.
>> OP Anonymous
OH GOD LOOK AT THE CHIN ON THAT ONE! IT WILL CONSUME OUR SOULS!
>> Anonymous
>>64408
hoya and kenko are the same company
>> Macheath !8b4g0BkNZg
>>64350
Hoya, B+W and Tiffen are supposedly the best out there.
>> Anonymous
Question:

For sunny days, for nature shots/urban settings, what kind of Neutral Density filter would be best - 2X, 4X, 8X, etc? If you wanted to blur, lets say a river, the more it reduces the light, the better, right? So 8X would be best out of those...
>> Anonymous
>>64427
Using a lens hood will do far more to protect your lens than using a filter... even a plastic one. If you fall hard enough to crack the front element of the lens, it's not like a filter will do much about it.

So remember kids. Use. Lens hood.
>> Anonymous
>>64587
I've just got an 8x, and it seems to work for me across a pretty broad range of situations.

Obviously, the best thing would be to have one of each.

>>64594
QFT. The tip of the lens won't even touch the ground.
>> Anonymous
>>64334
True, in that filters will not provide you physical sustenance.

>>64375
"and you'll have to re-buy ones for your newer lens"
Solution: drop a wad on a B+W 77 (or even 82!)mm and use stepping rings. Much cheaper than rebuying the same filter over and over.
>> Anonymous
>>64669

or... you could just plan ahead and buy lenses that have the same filter size... the canon 24-70 f2.8 and the 70-200 f2.8 both use 77mm and so does the 17-55 f2.8