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Anonymous
/p/ needs more longer than long exposure.
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS 20DImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2008:05:14 20:40:38Exposure Time444 secF-Numberf/8.0Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating100Lens Aperturef/8.0Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePatternFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length12.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width1280Image Height853RenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandard
>> Anonymous
>444 sec

wow. is your ND filter over 9000?
>> Anonymous
Why didn't you go f/22 or something?
>> Anonymous
>>182974
Because he wanted an exposure of 444 seconds, not 3444? Also, using f/22 on APS-C cameras makes images blurry due to diffraction.
>> Anonymous
>>182973

Hoya ND X400 (9 stops) + ND X8 (3 stops) + Cokin P121 Grad ND filter (can't remember)
>> Anonymous
clearly I'm just a noob here, but why did an exposure time of 444sec not create a white image?
>> Warren !!JL+uuUHRNlZ
>>183501
Imagine a bucket that you need to fill with water. When the bucket is full, it is the equivalent of proper exposure. You can use a big hose (think wide aperture) to fill the bucket very quickly (fast shutter speed). You can also use a small hose (small aperture) to fill the bucket slowly (slow shutter speed). Either way, the bucket gets filled. With heavy neutral density filtration, you're effectively closing off the end of the hose to just a trickle so that it takes a much longer time for enough light to accumulate to yield a proper exposure. Even though OP's exposure was extremely long, only a little light was coming in continuously, which yielded a proper exposure overall.
>> Anonymous
But I'm looking at it...f/8 isn't really small. Was it DARK outside?
>> Warren !!JL+uuUHRNlZ
>>183505
The aperture doesn't have to be small with that much ND filtration. Let's say normal exposure is 1/30 at f/8. Add that 9-stop ND filter and you need to expose 16 seconds at f/8 in order to get an equivalent exposure. Since his exposure was 444s at f/8, without the filter the correct exposure would be a little under one second at f/8.

The same amount of light is coming in overall - with the filtration it's just taking a lot longer to get to the proper exposure.
>> Anonymous !SDPEsPMnww
>>182972
Great picture but I don't like how the horizon is dead center.
>> Anonymous
>>183511


Ah ok...explain these filters. I didn't realize they were being used.
>> Anonymous !SDPEsPMnww
>>183518
They basically block light without any other effects and are rated at a certain number of stops. A 3-stop filter means you have to increase your exposure by 3 stops in order to get a properly exposed image. For example, if you take a picture using ISO100 1/250s and f/8, you could put that filter on and use either ISO800 or 1/30s or f/2.8 to get the same exposure.
>> beethy !HJGkSBB3Ao
>>183511
Warren, you are awesome.
You've been giving really helpful advice... it's great to see that on /p/.
Something we don't see enough
>> Anonymous
pic needs to be rotated -.8 degrees imho.
>> Anonymous
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>> chib !!RZtg9/1KP1J
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for the anon who was asking
This is with a 2 stop ND filter on

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTFirmware VersionFirmware 1.0.3Owner NameunknownSerial Number0420203527Image-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2008:05:17 09:29:55White Point Chromaticity0.3Exposure Time1/250 secF-Numberf/4.0Exposure ProgramNormal ProgramISO Speed Rating100Lens Aperturef/4.0Exposure Bias0 EVFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length50.00 mmColor Space InformationUncalibratedImage Width3456Image Height2304RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoScene Capture TypeStandardExposure ModeProgramFocus TypeAutoMetering ModeEvaluativeSharpnessHighSaturationHighContrastHighShooting ModeManualImage SizeLargeFocus ModeOne-ShotDrive ModeSingleFlash ModeOffCompression SettingFineMacro ModeNormalWhite BalanceAutoExposure Compensation3Sensor ISO Speed160Camera Actuations491127021Color Matrix0
>> chib !!RZtg9/1KP1J
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This is without the filter.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTFirmware VersionFirmware 1.0.3Owner NameunknownSerial Number0420203527Image-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2008:05:17 09:30:25White Point Chromaticity0.3Exposure Time1/320 secF-Numberf/5.0Exposure ProgramNormal ProgramISO Speed Rating100Lens Aperturef/5.0Exposure Bias0 EVFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length50.00 mmColor Space InformationUncalibratedImage Width3456Image Height2304RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoScene Capture TypeStandardExposure ModeProgramFocus TypeAutoMetering ModeEvaluativeSharpnessHighSaturationHighContrastHighShooting ModeManualImage SizeLargeFocus ModeOne-ShotDrive ModeSingleFlash ModeOffCompression SettingFineMacro ModeNormalWhite BalanceAutoExposure Compensation3Sensor ISO Speed160Camera Actuations491127022Color Matrix0
>> chib !!RZtg9/1KP1J
gah posted before I could add more.
for "everyday" photography you can us the ND filter to reduce light intensity.
>> Anonymous !SDPEsPMnww
>>183573
Awesome.
>> Warren !!JL+uuUHRNlZ
>>183523
Well, photography is important to me and I like to help. Most of 4chan is snarky, which is fine, but "lrn2 exopz lulz" doesn't really help someone better understand how to make an image that works. Sometimes it's nice to try to balance out the dumb shit.
>> Anonymous !PIDjsjVC82
>>182972
I think it is great to see someone else doing this. I recently got that same Hoya ND X400 so I could empty the streets in a long daylight exposure. I am half-tempted to get another, because cars at red lights still show up, but most of my exposures are only 10 - 30 seconds
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>183726

Yeah - whipped all of my NDs and tried out some extra-long ones downtown. Made most of the traffic disappear, but you could start seeing some long-exposure noise as well. Shooting on a 20D, though.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS 20DImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2008:05:16 16:44:02Exposure Time808 secF-Numberf/22.0Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating100Lens Aperturef/22.0Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePatternFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length11.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width1280Image Height853RenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandard
>> Anonymous
>>184215
how do you get to 808 or whatever second exposures and still come out perfectly exposed or atleast close
i know your using bulb but do you just guess and check exposures?
i suppose experience would help but i dont think anyone (atleast here, i may be wrong) is experienced enough to say "hmmm il do f8 at about 800 or so seconds" and be close.
i would love to be proved wrong though
>> pointless post Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>184234
Im guessing trial and error, although theres probably some huge calculation for working it out .. :\
>> Anonymous
>>184234

You set ISO-1600 and make some shots between 1second and maybe 15 seconds. If you've found the right timing, you set the ISO-Speed back to 100 and multiply your time by 16. So if you had 10 seconds @ Iso-1600, you have to exposure 160 seconds @ Iso-100.
>> Anonymous
>>184234

>> Since his exposure was 444s at f/8, without the filter the correct exposure would be a little under one second at f/8.

>> A 3-stop filter means you have to increase your exposure by 3 stops in order to get a properly exposed image. For example, if you take a picture using ISO100 1/250s and f/8, you could put that filter on and use either ISO800 or 1/30s or f/2.8 to get the same exposure.

oh wow that was complicated..

just balance the equation
>> Anonymous
>>184234

Usually test shots without filters at f/8 or f/11, then if I step it down from f/11 to f/16 (one F-stop), double the needed exposure time. In this case, I had a good amount of filtering that was something around 14 F-stops or so. So I went from 1/100 secs at f/11 first to f/22 (double the exposure time twice), after that double it some until I get an exposure time.

Of course, there was some trial and error too, since I tried using graduated ND filters as well.
>> Anonymous
Also, the histogram is the best thing since I don't know what. It's a good indicator for figuring out how much more exposure you'd probably need.
>> Anonymous
>>184473
>>184472
are you using one of those remotes that you tell how long to stay on for or just a manual click and lock and you keep track of the time?
>> Anonymous
Where do you guys get the Hoya NDX filters? I'm having a hard time finding them at a reliable vendor.
>> Anonymous
>>184502
Nah, just the basic RS-80N3 one, and looking at the counter on the body. Haven't tried over 999 second exposures though, if it loops, hangs at 999 or forces shutter release.

>>184506
Managed to get it via a local store in Helsinki -- just e-mailed them and asked if I could order it via them and if so, at what price. Most probably do that way, since at least Hoya's X400 is probably a "special order" most of the time.
>> Anonymous
im trying 6hrs this weekend . ..should be fun then have to develope the film which shold be even more fun lol . . .
>> eku !8cibvLQ11s
>>184542
Care to tell the exact name of the store?

And is there any better/pricewise alternative for RS-80N3?
>> Anonymous
>>184686
Got mine from elektroni.fi – the only place I managed to get it ordered from, set me back 139€.
>> $19.99 !OSYhGye6hY
>>184686
$3 ebay copy does the same thing
>> $19.99 !OSYhGye6hY
>>184686
there's also a $30 remote from ebay that does timed shutters so you don't need a timer with you.


http://cgi.ebay.ca/Timer-Remote-Cord-f-40d-30d-20d-5D-1Ds-Mark-III-TC-80N3_W0QQitemZ150248922104QQih
Z005QQcategoryZ64345QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

same thing as canon's $200 one.