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the rock show Anonymous
Hey /p/

I use a Nikon Coolpix L3 and I'm wondering, from your past experiences, what is the best way to approach taking pictures at concert venues where the light is low sans a few spotlights on the stage.

I like the way the light comes down without flash (when you're actually THERE in person), but the shutter speed is too long and I end up with the blur from all the movement of the musicians.

The flash isnt bad but I sometimes prefer the actual stage lighting to the light from my flash.

Any tips or advice?

In b4, get an SLR.
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
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>> Anonymous
If you can and the venue allows it, use a tripod. You can swing long exposures, which can lead to some really nifty effects, with a tripod holding your camera still. Assuming you have somewhere to put it, a beanbag might serve you just as well too.

Of course, an SLR <i>will</i> give you much better results overall, but it sounds like you don't want to go that route.
>> ac
Get an SLR.

(In after "Get an SLR")

An SLR will give you:
* Much higher usable ISO
* potential for much larger apertures, with a good lens (think cheap, fast prime)

which is what you'll need if you want to take pictures in low light like the sort you'd get in a concert venue like this.

... and looking at the specs of the Coolpix L3, you're *especially* not going to get anything good without a flash with one of those. f/3.2 and ISO200 max (and probably a shitty grainy ISO200 at that) just will not cut it. You might have a hope with something like a Canon S3IS, but the Coolpix L3 will never be a good available-light camera.
>> reply to low light photo question Anonymous
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>>40052As the other person suggested, the best way to capture any object at low light is with the use of a tripod. Another great investment is the use of a remote push button. With a little practice you can judge how long to leave the exposure open and may want to try different time intervals. .5-3 seconds for example. Fireworks are taken this way as well as moving water when sky is overcast or at dusk; gives water that "dreamy" soft cotton look. Good luck and enjoy. p.s. the same technique is used regardless of having a SLR or not! The example posted was my first attempt doing this and turned out pretty good I think. It was at dusk with very little light--much less than what there seems to be. One final added note is to try auto mode instead but focus on dark area first then move to subject or the reverse. Careful not to under or over expose.
>> another example, fireworks Anonymous
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>>40081Here's an example of fireworks using manual mode and remote pushbutton.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS 5DCamera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS2 WindowsImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2006:07:14 09:13:15Exposure Time1/8 secF-Numberf/4.0Exposure ProgramNot DefinedISO Speed Rating400Lens Aperturef/4.0Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePatternFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length24.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width3000Image Height3158
>> ac
>>40081
A tripod won't help you if it's dark and your subject is moving, too.

The background'll be sharp, but the subject will still be a blur. Which might be what he wants, but it sounds like not.
>> Anonymous
>>40052
Posted in the other thread without seeing this one.

Where was this shot? I think I know the place.
>> Anonymous
>>40092

OP here, It's the Living Room in Providence, RI.

It's not that I dont want an SLR, in fact, I really really want one, but Im just so broke I can't afford one and I'm always going to shows.

The problem is my subject is moving, all the time. Tripod or not, I'm gonna get the blur effects from their movement.
>> Anonymous
>>40096
Nope.

The only electrified music venue near where I live has those EXACT same columns with stickers stuck all over them.

Too bad.
>> Anonymous
>>40098

What venue is that, if I may ask?
>> Alzo
Use flash with a long exposure, I'm a noob so i can't explain correctly how this'll work, but just try it.
>> Anonymous
>>40151

This place:

http://www.myspace.com/thesaltydawg

It's not great, but like I said, it's the only place (restaurant piano bars excepted) that has electrified music on a regular basis. There's one other place that can accomadate electrified music, but it's a coffeeshop, not a music venue, and when it does have music it's usually acoustic.

If you look at some of the photographs on there, you'll see how I would think the photo was taken there.

Oh, and the only tips I can give you about shooting concerts is to manually bump the ISO up as high as possible, the aperture as open as possible, make damn sure image stabilization is on if your camera has it, and hold your camera properly while shooting.
>> Anonymous
my local venue takes batteries if you use flash and probably kick you out if you keep using it. I just wait for when there's good lightning and not many of the band members are moving. It also helps to keep people in the crowd out of the shot so the camera doesn't focus on them (it's a pain in the ass and ruined so many pictures for me).

I've been using my 7.2MP DSC-W7 Cyber Shot. It's small and durable :D
>> Anonymous
If you can't concentrate on stage with people using flashes in the audience, you suck and aren't ready to be on stage yet in the first place.
>> Anonymous
>>40203
This is absolutely the wrong attitude.

1. I'm sure a good musician -can- concentrate, but really, do you want to make it any harder for them? Is you getting a shot worth even possibly decreasing the quality of the performance for yourself and others?

2. It's just respectful not to use flash in such a situation, and I hope you don't go to the concerts of musicians you don't respect. Even if it doesn't bug the performer, it could bug someone in the audience.

It takes a hell of a lot of work, but concert photography can be pulled off without flash.