File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
Garbage in, garbage out?
My first time at night.
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
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>> beethy !HJGkSBB3Ao
kinda like it

but
too dark (durhhh night, it actually may be my shitty work monitor)
needs a crop and better framing

but yea, not bad man
i like the feel
>> Vincent !!8LCSE0Zp1mL
     File :-(, x)
I have a similar style shot. So posting!

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>> Anonymous
>>124265
What kind of framing are you thinking about?
I wanted to capture the feel of the street while not getting too close to the subject.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
did i do good op?

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>> Anonymous
>>124274
I see you just cropped and inch from the bottom, but doesn't the saturation feel too unrealistic?
Also levels+noise remove?
Thanks for the example.
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>124262
Underexposed, probably from the streetlights. Compensate about a stop.
>> Anonymous
Problem: Because of the high ISO, if I try to brighten up the midtones, I get tons of chroma noise.

Just for future reference, how do I meter such a scene? Use a gray card? The general advice on the net is to underexpose, then fix in post. This only works if your ISO is actually workable.

Also, I heard that on CRTs, underexposed images like these are just a blotch of black. [y/n]
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)


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>> lrf !XIxc6BpKnU
>>124646

Winner
>> Anonymous
>>124654
Op here.
Thanks, I actually made an effort this time.
So the consensus is that there is cropping to be done?
>> Anonymous
>>124642
>Use a gray card?
This is theoretically the most accurate, but I never do it. Find out what a medium tone looks like and meter off something that looks about that tone. Lots of pavement works as a gray card. Or, once you develop an understanding of tones, you can usually meter off anything and compensate.

But there's some advantages to overexposing I'll get to in a minute, for which metering with the histogram is your friend. (Learn to read a histogram if you don't know how. Actually, reading histograms combined with judicious spot-metering of different points in the scene is probably the most accurate way.)

>The general advice on the net is to underexpose, then fix in post.

This is usually very wrong. The more exposure a sensor gets, the more dynamic range it has. To get the best results from a digital sensor, one has to overexpose as much as possible without blowing anything out and pull it back.

(This is assuming you're shooting raw. If you shoot JPEG- which isn't a good idea- nail the exposure exactly as you want it.)

The exceptions are some night scenes like this. Underexposed and pushed is better than overexposed with motion blur, for instance, and increasing the ISO will compromise the dynamic range advantage of overexposure. Adjust the shutter speed for more exposure if you can, but leave things alone otherwise.

>on CRTs, underexposed images like these are just a blotch of black

No, CRTs actually have broader dynamic range than LCDs. If you PP your shots, especially, a CRT provides huge advantages for editing and displaying photographs. Look at them side by side sometime; almost anyone who's done so that I know winds up switching. CRTs are cheap, too.

I just have a laptop, but sitting on the desk next to it is a calibrated CRT I hook up whenever I'm editing photographs.
>> Anonymous
>>124739
no the edits of the original havnt been cropped at all, just resized....
>> Anonymous
>>124781
How would I go about calibrating a CRT?

>The more exposure a sensor gets, the more dynamic range it has.
Do you have sauce for that? I was wrongly thinking that digital sensors lost details in the highlights.
>> Anonymous
>>124825
>How would I go about calibrating a CRT?

There's these expensive things you can buy that'll do it for you, but it can be done for free with any number of charts and things on the Internet. Google "monitor calibration" and they'll be a bunch to choose from.

Works for an LCD or a CRT, either way.

>Do you have sauce for that? I was wrongly thinking that digital sensors lost details in the highlights.

They do, if you overexpose too much. An eight bit file (JPEGs, for instance) has 255 different gradations of possible brightness for each pixel. 0 is totally black, 255 is totally white. Overexpose too much and the really bright parts will end up just plain white. Larger files (12 and 14 bit raw files) have more possible gradations.

The trick is to overexpose just enough without reaching 255, or whatever it is for the larger files. The histogram will tell you if you've done this.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

Explains the technical side.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

Explains histograms.
>> Anonymous
>>124830
Apparently I shouldn't shoot digital like 35mm film. Got it.