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Anonymous
Getting the right white balance on my nikon D40 is the suck. I need some helps here /p/. what do i do under incandescent and fluorescent light. I dont want to use flash. inb4D40blahblah

Pic unrelated. original content.
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Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATIONCamera ModelNIKON D40Camera SoftwareVer.1.10Maximum Lens Aperturef/5.7Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern682Focal Length (35mm Equiv)300 mmImage-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution240 dpiVertical Resolution240 dpiImage Created2008:05:11 22:22:18Exposure Time1/800 secF-Numberf/7.1Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating360Lens Aperturef/7.1Exposure Bias-0.7 EVMetering ModePatternLight SourceUnknownFlashNo FlashFocal Length200.00 mmRenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypeStandardGain ControlNoneContrastNormalSaturationHighSharpnessNormalSubject Distance RangeUnknown
>> Anonymous
Why would you ever, ever care about WB with RAW and photoshop? Seriously, l2correction.
>> Anonymous
Because I dont have photoshop. Will Lightroom do the same l2corecction. I would really like to know how to do it on camera if possible.
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>192732
WB on that is fine, if you want to be picky - its just the slightest bit to warm. Although no-one will ever realise.
>> Anonymous
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Thats not the one i need help with here a RANDOM one.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATIONCamera ModelNIKON D40Camera SoftwareVer.1.10Maximum Lens Aperturef/4.8Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern682Focal Length (35mm Equiv)57 mmImage-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution240 dpiVertical Resolution240 dpiImage Created2008:05:29 18:36:34Exposure Time1/125 secF-Numberf/7.1Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating1600Lens Aperturef/7.1Exposure Bias-0.7 EVMetering ModePatternLight SourceTungstenFlashNo FlashFocal Length38.00 mmRenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandardGain ControlHigh Gain UpContrastNormalSaturationHighSharpnessNormalSubject Distance RangeUnknown
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
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>>192786
Tried to fix it abit.
This photo makes me feel sick :\

>>192751
Lightroom can change the WB for you.
On camera, there should be a colour tempreture option.
The higher the tempreture the more warm it'll be and vise-versa. Correct me if its the otherway around.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>192789
Jesus fuck alive Martin that's terrible.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATIONCamera ModelNIKON D40Camera SoftwareVer.1.10Maximum Lens Aperturef/4.8Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern670Focal Length (35mm Equiv)57 mmImage-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution240 dpiVertical Resolution240 dpiImage Created2008:05:29 18:36:34Exposure Time1/125 secF-Numberf/7.1Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating1600Lens Aperturef/7.1Exposure Bias-0.7 EVMetering ModePatternLight SourceTungstenFlashNo FlashFocal Length38.00 mmRenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandardGain ControlHigh Gain UpContrastNormalSaturationHighSharpnessNormalSubject Distance RangeUnknown
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>192797
Yeah just realised the horribly high contrast and green cast >.< You've sorted it out tho :P Although the shadows are abit blown out now :(
But tbh, Idc - its an awful photo anyway.
>> Anonymous
>>192802
The shadows are more defined in my edit than the original. Just because turning the contrast up super-high increases shadow depth doesn't mean it's the right thing to do.

Also, not saying that you're going to pull this excuse out, but if I fucking hear "oops sorry my monitor's not calibrated" ONE MORE FUCKING TIME, I'm going to lose it. I do all my edits on a cheap-ass acer TN LCD and my prints come out beautifully.
>> Anonymous
>>192797

That one looks horrible and foggy.
>> Anonymous
>>192812
Your eyes are horrible and foggy. Give us your edit, cuntflap.
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>192811
My monitor is calibrated perfectly actually; Used a Spyder 2 Pro.
>> eku !8cibvLQ11s
RAW and Lightroom. What else would a man need? Can't think any.
>> Anonymous
in after rawfags

>>192732
Two options if you want to do on camera WB.

1) Find out how to do custom WB (read the manual) and use that. I usually just use a blank piece of paper as a white card for it, but anything white will do in a pinch.

2) Set it to your camera's "tungsten" WB setting for incandescent or fluoro WB for fluorescent light. Take a shot and check for colour casts on the lcd screen, if it isn't right then you picked the wrong setting or the lighting is a bit funny (maybe a combination of different types of lighting) and you should use custom.
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
I have a d40. I keep my tungsten setting at +1, and use that if I'm trying to minimize the orange. If I want it a little more orange, I use auto.
I haven't shot under florescent enough to have bothered. Auto seems to work fine in the few cases I've needed it, although with minor correction afterwards. So maybe a 1 in whatever direction makes it less magenta.
>> Anonymous
The the worst made.
>> Anonymous
The white balance on the D40 is the worst ever made.
>> Anonymous
isnt there an auto WB?
arent there presets for incandescent and fluorescent?
>> Depressed Cheesecake !wFh1Fw9wBU
Probably already said, but why the fuck would you bother with WB? Just shoot RAW.
>> Einta !!MWv3ICYobCM
I have determined that the best practice is to shoot RAW after doing a custom WB. That way, I hopefully don't have to tweak the WB but I can if necessary.

Unless I'm doing bloody long bursts. Then I have to shoot jpeg :/...so custom WB is it.