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ScottishChan !!wmrA5TO2m8R
Hey /p/, i was wondering if i could have advice about taking photos in low light conditions in gigs.

I have the stock 18-55mm lens which came with the canon 400D (XTi), and no matter how much i tweak my settings, including shutter speed, focal length and ISO speed, i always get long exposure shots which look terrible and blurry

I do however get good results using the flash. but it doesn't give the effect i want. I also think it's rude to the performer.

Can anyone give me advice on how to produce decent gig photography, perhaps suggesting a new lens which would be able to cope?
>> Anonymous
learn how exposure works and get a fast lens like the 50mm f/1.8
>> ScottishChan !!wmrA5TO2m8R
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>>231649

I was thinking of getting a 50mm f/1.8 because they're pretty cheap

But i was also looking at the Sigma 30mm/1.4, Canon's 50mm/1.4 and 85mm/1.8.

Was wondering if anyone had advice on the best bang for buck, so to speak.
>> Anonymous
>>231652
85/1.8
>> Anonymous
>>231652
85mm f/1.8! Not best bang with a buck, but you wont regret it ever.
>> Licorice !yn/5agH55.
Two main options is fast glass or flashgun...

Id go for the Prime, but before you buy think about how close/far you are going to be for most of these shots, then take into account your 1.5 crop.

You could get a good flashgun for the price of a lens, would also solve the problem,

Depends how you wanna go about it
>> ScottishChan !!wmrA5TO2m8R
>>231649
>>231654
>>231655

Thanks guys. I'm off to shop then. I think i'll start saving for the 85/1.8, and in the mean time go for 50mm/1.8.

I tend to be pretty close to the action because it's usually quite intimate gigs that i bother to take my camera to.
>> Anonymous
What part of Scotland are you from?
>> Licorice !yn/5agH55.
>>231659

Why both??

If your going to drop teh cash on a 50mm, why tehn get a 85 right after??

If i was you, and got the 50, yes id work on getting the 85, but id get a quality wide angle after the 50, then the 85

Thats just me though (and i know nothing :P)
>> Anonymous
>>231874
Aberdeen
>> Anonymous
Might be worth grabbing an external flash as well, great for bouncing light off the ceiling.
>> Anonymous
OP, getting the fifty is definitely the right call. I've found between 70-75mm equivalent (which 80mm equivalent isn't that far off, and might work just as well, I've never shot an event with an 80mm equivalent) is somehow a perfect workhorse for shooting any kind of performance, whether a concert or a speech or whatever. No matter how far off, that'll pull good shots. It won't do everything , and it won't every time get the best shots compared to other possibilities, but it will get good shots if you can, in my experience. I wouldn't shoot a performance without some lens that gets me in that equivalent range on whatever format I'm shooting if I could help it.

So yeah, get that fifty. The thirty is also good; normals like that are good to great if you get a good spot and are the perfect workhorse for everything else. Depending on your style, you might want that before the 85. I would personally, but if you want to gravitate towards tighter shots of the performers the 85 would be the better call.

As far as tips, you seem like you're doing pretty well. Just study composition (look great photographs, but also paintings and film scenes, figure out why they work compositionally) and the work of great concert photographers (Jim Marshall's the really big one, chances are 9/10 you've seen his stuff before without realizing it) and work at it.

>>231876
1) If he can't get close enough, a wide angle is pretty damn near useless except for crowd shots.

2) F/3.5 at a wide angle is much better than f/5.6 at the tele. Beyond the sheer speed advantage, it's easier to handhold and blur is generally less obvious at a wider angle, even if one object is the same size the background is receded versus magnified.
>> Anonymous
>>231876

agreed get the 50mm 1.8, fucking great for whatever system your using. then go for something wider. youll be glad that you have the wider lens wheb you get up close as the 50mm can be a bit.....um "stuffed" when at small gigs.

also get an of the camera flash system, ebay triggers will let you use any old flash you find on new digital bodies that use a lower voltage to trigger the flash.
>> Anonymous
>>I also think it's rude to the performer.

depends on the type of gig your shooting. most bads will at some point had a bunch of ppl take a shit load of pictures of them. they are used to it.

if your at a local gig in a small venue its hard not to get in the way. ive shot a few punky gigs recently and the bands were on the same level of the audience and it felt a bit like there were to many photographers. who knows. just do it and worry about it later. also fuck all the bands are usually shit.
>> Anonymous
>>231930
I think it's rude to the performer rude to the audience; the number one thing for me shooting concerts is to stay out of the way. What they're all doing is more important than my pictures.

Also rude to the lighting designers who put work into coming up with those fucking annoying to shoot designs... I'd rather if concerts were just lit like normal rooms, even from a nonphotographic perspective, but I'm not about to drown out someone else's work with my strobe.
>> Anonymous
>>231935

your strobe LOL. that fraction of a second flash isnt going to do shit. oh shit yeah, i bet your hand held, off the camera, flash is going to BLIND THE FUCKING BAND.

stop being such pussies. more than likely the band will be a bunch of 18-30 white guys on a fucking ego trip. they will be either drunk or on shitty cut cocaine and WANT their pictures taken. Ater the gigs they allways come up to me and say HERES MA MYSPACE SEND PLOX. I tell them i will but i never fucking do.
>> FNB
Agreed w/ the rest on the 50mm f/1.8, I'm guessing that this is out of the question due to the camera you're shooting on, but if you want to get serious about concert photography you will eventually need an f/2.8 70-200mm. Great lens for weddings as well. Nikon/Canon's versions are $1700+ but Sigma makes a great alternative that you can find for about half the price. I also take an f/2.8 fisheye with me, makes for some interesting shots.

Also, shooting at venues with good lighting helps a ton.
>> Anonymous
>>231891

[Insert generic joke about sheep shagging]
>> ANTMY
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my two cents: get a prime ( i personally like my 24mm f/2.8 because of the width) but don't necessarily open up the aperture or crank the ISO, but get a cheap wireless transmitter and use flash. Put it behind your subjects 1.) because you will get a better effect 2.) they wont get pissed for you blinding them.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS 40DSerial Number1420715782Image-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2008:07:29 10:30:14RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypeStandardExposure Time1/90 secF-Numberf/2.8Exposure ProgramShutter PriorityISO Speed Rating800Lens Aperturef/2.8Exposure Bias1.5 EVMetering ModePartialFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length24.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width2592Image Height3888
>> Anonymous
>>231982
bad fucking idea. srsrly. the point is to have a subject well lit. 'cool effects' dont mean shit if the subject is darker then everything else.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
anyone who says to never use strobes on a band is full of shit.

anyone who says to always use strobes on a band is full of shit.

there? problem solved?
OP: faster and better lenses first, but definately buy a strobe because they are needed sometimes and a LOT of bands really don't care a bit if you flash them, it just gives them a big ego boost.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTiPhotographerunknownMaximum Lens Aperturef/1.8Image-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution65000 dpiVertical Resolution65000 dpiImage Created2008:08:03 01:28:19Exposure Time1/60 secF-Numberf/1.8Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating800Lens Aperturef/1.8Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePartialFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length50.00 mmRenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandard
>> Anonymous
.. i guess you should have bought the D80, it comes with a 18-55 VR now.
>> Anonymous
>>232049
thats not true, if your in a band do you want the masses to see your pictures and say WOW THESE ARE COOL or WOW THESE ARE BORING, BUT PROPERLY EXPOSED!

>>231982
unless your getting some sort of photog pass or can get super close to the stage than 24mm really isnt a good lens length, and the photog pass thing goes with being able to set up lights before hand.

i like shooting with available light but a flash would be better to capture motion.
>> FNB
>>232078

If you are shooting national acts 99% of the time you will never be allowed to set up strobes, only get to shoot for 3 songs, and you will be running around with 10-50 other photographers in the pit depending how big of a deal the show is.

Unless the act hires you to take their photos, then that might be a different deal.
>> sage !i/euDJmWr2
>>232108
being close friends with the owner of the venue and a lot of the bands sure does have its perks, you know?

I haven't paid for a show in forever, Mike (the owner) lets me in for free because I provide them with publicity, and most of the bands they book are local or independant acts that are really fun to watch and hang out with afterwards, Ive even gotten high with members from a couple =D
>> Anonymous
low lighting: use a damn tripod. don't try to hold camera yourself. it will distort lights. use low shutter speeds. use w/b sparingly. TRIPOD. Seriously. it's the only way. and low shutter speeds. it's make a ton of difference.
>> Anonymous
don't use flash.
it screws up the details.
no flash kay?
>> Anonymous
>>232129
Hello, my name is:
Trolly McTrollerson
>> I have the same problem ANON
Only I can't use a 50mm f/1.8 because I am shooting outdoor, nighttime sporting events. To get the shots I need I need to use a telephoto lens. The shots only come out clear if I use the flash. If not I get a similar effect to the people I take pictures of. What can I do to correct this.

These events are in softball field so the lighting is like baseball statuim lighting.
>> Anonymous
>>232341

Buy a 200mm f1.8 or f2
>> Butterfy !xlgRMYva6s
>>232143
Trolly Mc Trollfucker is going to be upset someone is using his name.
>> Anonymous
>>232341
There's several things you can do.

1) Buy a longer lens, like someone said.
2) You've got a 50mm and a twelve megapixel sensor? Then you also have a 100mm and a six megapixel sensor. (In other words, crop that bitch.)
3) Shoot in a looser style than you normally would. Empty space can be very effective and tight pictures of sports players (or musicians, or actors, or...) are the most overdone and overrated thing ever.
>> ScottishChap
Sup, Aberdeen? Nice to see some other 4chan browsers from the Scottish neck of the woods.

Fae Ayrshire. :D
>> hV !!RUXElHyppVl
>>232399
Glasgowfag here hahaha
>> Blackadder !!bSWRwu/NqzQ
>>232434

Cool. I never knew there were many Scots on 4chan. Didn't think that there were a lot of Brits either, especially in this little corner of it.
>> Anonymous
Annnd another scot. This time from N.Lanarkshire :3
>> Anonymous
>>232460
>>232462

one of the biggest English speaking sites on the entire fucking internet and you guys are surprised?
>> Blackadder !!bSWRwu/NqzQ
>>232474

Yeah, because Scots are a tiny, tiny percentage of the English speaking world. Especially compared to America. Less folk on 4chan as a percentage in the UK too, I'd bet. USA always was more ahead with internet connectivity, I think.

I do see what you mean though, but it's still interesting to see as you tend to get used to most people on English speaking boards (unless they are aimed at UK crowed) being American after a while.
>> hV !!RUXElHyppVl
>>232462
Omg where abouts?
>> Anonymous
We should totally have a Scots /p/ meet up one day.
>> Anonymous
>>231647

http://www.boudist.com/archive/2007/02/07/concert_photography_masterclass.php
>> Shu
Londoner here ^^ I have to say that Scottish venues are normally a whole lot more interesting to shoot on the outside and diverse on the inside than most of the toilets that get played down here. Scotland's also surprisingly expensive these days too, guess its all those blue chip offices setting up there.
>> ANTMY
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>>232131
until i save up for a f/1.2, i'll stick to a speedlite, thanks.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS 40DMaximum Lens Aperturef/2.8Image-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution240 dpiVertical Resolution240 dpiImage Created2008:07:30 11:37:05Exposure Time1/90 secF-Numberf/2.8Exposure ProgramShutter PriorityISO Speed Rating800Lens Aperturef/2.8Exposure Bias1.5 EVMetering ModePartialFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length24.00 mmRenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypeStandard
>> Anonymous
>>232487
Not really sure how many you guys are, but we're (norwegians) 4,5 millions, and there's SHITLOADS of us on here.
>> Anonymous
Watch the lighting. Look for any patterns and if you can predict a strong burst of frontal light, be ready for it.

Probably a given - but obviously always shoot raw so you have some chance at recovering those underexposed ones.

Sharp pics should be your primary goal, so don't be afraid to push the shutter speed as far as necessary to get a sharp shot, then hope to hell there's enough info to salvage the brightness.

A shot that is blurry but well lit is useless. A shot that is sharp, but underexposed has at least a chance at being salvaged. Up the exposure in Lightroom or whatever you use, and drop the blacks a little to keep it looking rich.

Pay attention to what the musicians are doing. Especially the frontman. You'll notice, at least with some, that certain strong stances or poses will be repeated. Look out for a strong pose, and if you miss it, be ready for the next time.

I wouldn't even bother with flash. It completely destroys the shot and just isn't worth it.

Forget the tripod, you'll never get it positioned quickly enough for a shot before the band has jumped around to another position on the stage. I think its more trouble than it's worth. Lean against a pole behind you or something to steady yourself if you can.

If you know the owner, maybe have a chat to him about getting some stronger lights at the front to help you out.

Good luck.
>> Anonymous
>>232129
>>232131

lol, i find using manual and flash easiest. Where I shoot I typically switch between these two settings:
w/flash
1/250
iso 1600
f5.6
continous focus

w/o flash
1/45
f4
iso 3200
continous focus
high speed motor

i;m able to get some decent shots with the first, not often with the second, though.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/2692680603_cb17a41dba.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3086/2708466231_9ffd8fa399.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2214/2459866026_6cba2db671.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2317/2450683680_8ec2594e9a.jpg

>>232766
>I wouldn't even bother with flash. It completely destroys the shot and just isn't worth it

I disagree, but personal preference. I find that having a shot that shows action, has good quality, and is well wit is better than having a shot that is all red and orange and black and boring.