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Anonymous
OK /p/ ive got this minolta srT200 that my uncle gave to my brother. its got i guess the kit lens on it? (135mm f3.5)
i want to try some infrared with it but i need to ask how to use the metering on it.
i see a little thing in the viewfinder and it moves up and down but doesnt change under different light conditions only when i change aperture and shutter speed. help?
and i dont know how to set the iso. would that be asa? because theres all sorts of things saying asa on it.
and last but not least would i have to order infrared film or would a decent camera store have some?

not trolling in case my post is that ridiculous
im used to digital.......
>> Anonymous
>>194963
im not going to do that. why the fuck would i do that?
i dont have that kind of money.
i think im just going to pick up a filter unless i can find some film.
>> Not Sage
>>194967
What about faux-IR shoop'd images? That's basically free if you already have anything digital and a minimal working knowledge of Photoshop.
>> Anonymous
>>194989
examples/tutorials?
>> Anonymous
>>194949
Incorrect, there are a number of infrared films still on the market. Ilford, Rollei, Efke, and Maco all still make IR films.

>>194957
There is no such thing as "cheap shit" with respect to IR films. They are all expensive.

Film IR looks different from digital IR, and it's different to work with as well. Digital IR often means long exposures and lots of post processing, neither of which are necessary with film. On the other hand, IR films take a bit of work to get right. You would be much better served buying a few rolls of Tri-X and learning to operate regular black and white film before trying IR. As for shooting in IR, you will need at the minimum a red 25 or 29 filter and you will have to bracket your shots because camera meters aren't sensitive to IR light.
>> Anonymous
Shooting IR with a 135mm lens will be gay as fuck. Get a used 24 or 28 mm lens and you'll get better images. IR is made for landscapes and 135mm is not a good landscape lens unless you're really far away.

As someone who avidly shot HIE before they discontinued it, I'd say film infrared is not even worth getting into anymore. All the other infrared films are total garbage. They've discontinued all the nice ones like the Konica and the HIE (<3<3<3). Fuckers.

You can always just open the digital camera up yourself. Lots of sites have tutorials and I successfully converted my D1 to infrared with no problems whatsoever.
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>195398
It looks like 81 stated it correctly, the dial tells the camera how to meter, but changing iso is changing film.
>> Inanimate !3dXYfvdbBk
>>195399

I assume someone isn't so helpless as to think you can "set" the sensitivity of a film that is in a camera. So my only other logical conclusion is that he was asking how to adjust the metering.
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>195400
Heh, yeah, unfortunately that looks like exactly what he asked.
>> Inanimate !3dXYfvdbBk
>>195404

*sigh*

Why do I even try.
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>195404
Ugh, sorry, what I mean is, I think 81 missed the point of the question, although his answer was technically correct.
>> Anonymous
135mm is a short telephoto, used mostly for portraits and photojournalism. It will be unacceptable for most other things.

Don't buy infrared film. The metering will be wrong (if it's not broken already) and, given that you are a total noob, you will have a hell of a time focusing it (infrared light doesn't focus at the same point as visible light). You will have to load the camera in total darkness and keep it away from heat. You'll also pay through the nose for the film, and probably the processing as well since there aren't many places that will still do regular black and white development. You will have to order it in specially...it's rare to find more than 2-3 kinds of black and white film from any one manufacturer anymore, and HIE was never popular.

ISO film speed = new renaming of ASA film speed. They're equivalent. Doesn't matter, though, because IR film can't be rated in ASA anyway.

Do like the other posters say: get a few rolls of Tri-X (or my favorite, Plus-X) and shoot regular film to learn how to use a fully manual camera. Go into infrared later if you really, really want to.
>> Anonymous
>>195404
>>195398
thanks man that REALLY would have been useful the other day.
my dad found the battery thing and he might get a new one today?
he also found the asa thing. he knew much more than he lead me to believe.
as for any confusion about what i meant by "set the iso" i did mean set the metering accordingly. i know you cant set a films iso.
>>195410
people keep telling me to do this i guess i didnt really explain it well but my budget is VERY little.
im sure i could get some decent film for it and see what i learn but i dont think i want to "pay through the nose" for some IR film.
my interest in using a SLR is pretty minimal. the only thing i like about messing with the minolta is the good viewfinder, thats pretty much it. i thought (naively i guess) that i could simple get some IR film and play with it a bit and that be it.

is focusing with IR really that different?
>> Anonymous
>>195441
Not to be a jerk, but if you can't afford to shoot a couple rolls of black and white film, you sure as hell can't afford to ruin a few rolls of IR film at $15-20 per roll and $15-20 each to develop while trying to figure out how to work it.

Focusing with IR is only different sometimes. As was mentioned, IR light focuses at a different point than visible light. Since IR has a longer wavelength than visible light, it focuses slightly behind where visible would. If you're using an IR-only filter like an R72, R82, or exposed slide film, you will need to adjust your focusing by first focusing in visible light (with the filter removed, obviously) then turning the focusing ring to align with the IR focusing mark on the lens. If you're shooting without a filter, or with a red 29 or 25 filter, there is enough visible light that you don't need to compensate for focusing. Just shoot stopped down to f/11 or more and don't take pictures of anything really close to the camera. To further complicate matters, some lenses (almost all modern ones) lack the necessary IR focusing dot to do the compensation. In that case, you just have to figure out through trial and error how much in what direction you'll need to adjust the focus, then either add your own mark or just remember how much you need to turn the ring.

The other thing I forgot to mention in earlier posts is developing. You'll have to get it done at a pro lab that knows how to handle IR film. It requires special handling, so any lab that doesn't know exactly what they're doing will likely ruin it. It also doesn't have a rated ISO speed, so it will have to be developed according to how you shot it- the corner drugstore probably won't know how to do this. Since it takes special handling, labs tend to charge a lot to process it. Of course this can all be fixed by doing your own developing.
>> Anonymous
>>195441
IR light focuses at a different point from what visible light does. some lenses have a little IR mark on the focusing scale to show the difference.
>> Anonymous
>>195454
wow, im glad i didnt waste money on buying film the prices (ebay) arent awful but more than i would want for under/over exposed shots due to shotty metering and then unfocused pictures due to the fact that i didnt know that the focus would be different.
2nd time ive ever been helped by /p/ i think
1st was when i got my camera, yes /p/ suggested i get an E-510. must have been back in the good days. although that was only around xmas.
>> Anonymous
>>195468
Seems you're moving away from it, but I would also point out that buying IR film on eBay is probably not the greatest idea. You really need to treat it carefully, because the stuff is very very sensitive. A film canister usually isn't enough to keep light out, and even a hot day can fog it. The best way to get IR film is straight from a well-reputed camera shop's freezer.

Alternately, you can get an old DSLR and take out the IR cut filter. That is probably a much better idea for "messing around with IR photography".
>> Anonymous
>>195575A film canister usually isn't enough to keep light out, and even a hot day can fog it.
Where the fuck do you people get this idea? IR film is NOT sensitive to heat. Exposure to very high temperatures can damage any film, and IR is no different, but heat will not fog or expose the film. Just don't leave it on your car's dashboard on a hot day- you'll melt it.

IR film does require special handling, it needs to be loaded in total darkness. Ebay film should be fine as long as it's in an unopened box (that way you know nobody ever took it out of the canister in the light) and not expired. Refrigeration extends the shelf life of any film, but if it's within the expiration date and hasn't been melted, it should be fine.