File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
Okay, so does /p/ adjust each and every shot manually, or does /p/ use the auto mode?

I can see sometimes doing each, but for the majority, lets say walking around town taking shots of architecture or people, or maybe flowers, do you opt for manual or auto?
>> Anonymous
manual, always.
i am smarter than a computer.
for most outside shots, i dont even look at a light meter.
i wish there was a DSLR equivalent to my Nikon FM2, cause i do not want all of the crappy features that are forced on me. they just get in my way.
>> Anonymous
M for life.
>> ac !!VPzQAxYPAMA
Aperture-priority autoexposure most of the time, with EV compensation as necessary. In particularly tricky lighting or when I'm using off-camera flash, I'll flip to manual. I almost never use shutter-priority, and my camera goes full-manual only when I'm handing it to someone else.
>> Anonymous
Depends on what I'm shooting. For more casual stuff, family outings, vacations and friend stuff, it's always on auto. But for more "serious" stuff, I set it to aperture or shutter priority or manual. It doesn't mean I take good pictures though, quite possibly the opposite.
>> Anonymous
Always Manual, switching between spot metering toggle and multi-segment.

Everyone thinking about getting seriously into photography should get and old old old camera that you have to meter manually on that has shitty full-frame metering (easily thrown off). Grey cards, metering without EV scale meters. That's how you understand exposure.
>> Anonymous
For casual shooting and concerts, it's usually Av. For events (work-related shooting) I just go automatic, because I can't really risk missing a shot to adjust everything all the time.
>> Anonymous
>>74544
Don't say that too much. I can just see Indie kids wearing merch with that phrase.
>> Anonymous
>>74560
sterotypical burnt out 'pro' thats too lazy and doesnt care anymore, u suk lol
>> Anonymous
Manual on film, auto or aperture-priority on digital.
>> phesarnion
It depends entirely on the situation.

Architecture: Aperture priority with a -1/3 stop of compensation dialed in, then adjusted as needed, Matrix metering

Candids: Apeture priority, matrix with -1/3
Wildlife: Shutter priority (minimize shake at longer focal lengths, with -2/3 dialled in, matrix metering

Available light gig photography: Spot metering, shutter priority, auto-iso between 100 and 400. -2/3 stop

Landscape: Usually full manual with a directional lightmeter, as its unlikely that the landscape is going to move at any time, and the lightmeter allows me to more accurately determine exposure for a given area of the picture (for landscapes, i tend to use multiple exposures and blend them, rather than using ND grads)

When i'm generally walking around, it's in Aperture priority, with -1/3 stop in again, using matrix or occasionally centre-weighted.
>> Anonymous
Auto mode mostly for speed shooting but if I'm setting up the shot then it's manual.
>> ????? !wAHA/GeRU.
I usually use Aperture priority with EV compensation, manual for certain situations.
>> Anonymous
Real men use manual.
>> Vincent
>>74621
Lol

Aperture priority when shutter speeds aren't imperative

Shutter priority when shooting sports and or aperture isn't as imperative

Manual at night + clubs, and auto ISO when I want the camera to meter but aperture and shutter speeds can't change much.
>> Anonymous
Manual for more closed/reliable environments

Aperture-priority w/ EV compensation for still subjects, buildings and landscapes

Shutter-priority w/ EV compensation for moving subjects, people and traffic and landscapes with lots of wind, snow falling, whatever


I use ISO auto, but limit the max ISO to be what I think I'd probably need the most in a given environment, same with what shutter speed it changes things from
>> thefamilyman !!rTVzm2BgTOa
i hardly ever use manual mode (on my auto cameras like F5 and D70, others i'm forced to use manual like my Petri7 and canon demi)
i use Aperture priority with EV compensation or Program priority with EV compensation.

I find manual too slow, when the camera can figure it out for itself and does a good job too.
>> Butterfly !xlgRMYva6s
Manual / apature

Manual for any demanding situations in nightclubs etc but depends on what lense im using. Generally walking about i use apature to keep it in the best range of the lense and everything else is fine.
>> Anonymous
>>74542
Signed. I posted something about this earlier.

With regard to metering, my usual practice is to set an approximate, guessed exposure, and then to tweak it by metering with the histogram... it's more accurate and lets one exploit this technique: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

When I don't have time to screw with the histogram, I guess, and use center-weighted average. In manual mode at least, evaluative metering is a stupid idea. You don't know what the camera is actually metering or what it is thinking. Center weighted average, it's right in the name: the camera is metering what it is being pointed at, and taking other things into account.

On static scenes, spot metering and a personal bastardized zone system combined with the histogram.

After all that, I shoot in manual because, once more, I know what the camera is doing. I can't think of a better example than the one I used previously: Shooting in daylight, one notices a scene underneath a canopy, a few very noticable stops darker. The choices are:

1. Shoot as is. The image is ruined; it's totally unexposed beyond repair and dynamic range is screwed.

2. Shoot it properly exposed. If it's a street scene, as this theoretical situation I actually run into a lot is, the shutter speed will probably be too slow and there will be blur. This is what your Aperture Priority mode is going to do.

3. With knowledge of the progression of shutter speeds on the dial, the photographer in manual mode quickly flicks the dial to the proper shutter speed.
>> Anonymous
>>74752
[Con't.]
Before you say "Aperture Priority and EV compensation," method three is still better for two reasons: first, the photographer still doesn't know exactly which shutter speed the camera will use, and second, the same physical step (turning a dial) is required for both methods. Why not use the more precise one? Sure, it takes practice, knowledge of one's tools, and learning an intuitive feel for exposure, but one should do all that anyways.

I'll use shutter priority and aperture priority if I can't estimate a particular exposure with confidence and don't have the time to both meter and compose through the viewfinder without the subject noticing.
>> Anonymous
1.48 a gallon? How old and where the fuck?
>> Anonymous
Nowadays I shoot with a D200. I have a firmware hack that disables the light meter. Always shoot full manual with an external light meter if I need one.. but most of the time intuition is enough.

I find it hard to believe that any serious photographer could let a computer chip make crucial decisions about their exposure.
>> Anonymous
>>74798
>I have a firmware hack that disables the light meter

I'm all for careful exposure decision-making and manual shooting, but what's the point of disabling something with no drawbacks? If you shoot manual, the meter won't have anything to do with what the camera does,
>> Anonymous
>>74813
because it makes one feel better than other photographers by being elitist
>> Anonymous
>>74798
Why would you hack the firmware? How about just putting it to manual and not look at the internal light meter.
>> phesarnion
>>74798
Next week on the anonymous channel, more bullshit and elitism.

Frankly, a "meter off" firmware hack is utterly pointless, and (if it indeed exists and anonymous isn't BSing again) would cripple the camera in minimum gear situations, and in situations in which quick reactions are needed.
>> Anonymous
Av
sometimes M
>> des
>>74813
>>74820
>>74821
>>74825
more liek, this week on biting trollbait
damn guys, come on

Av + easy EV comp on the ones that have it.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
I started out with P. Now I shoot with M pretty much all the time. Sometimes Av.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeCanonCamera ModelCanon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTiCamera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS WindowsImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2007:09:09 16:06:32Exposure Time1/50 secF-Numberf/4.0Exposure ProgramNormal ProgramISO Speed Rating400Lens Aperturef/4.0Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModePatternFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length28.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width700Image Height467RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandard
>> Anonymous
I use aperture priority (with exposure compensation as necessary) for most shots, full manual for some very specific ones, and sometimes faux shutter priority with manual lenses (set camera to Av mode, focus with largest aperture, then stop it down until camera measures maximum acceptable shutter speed)
>> Anonymous
>>74798

Really? Me too!

I also drive to the shoot with my steering wheel disabled and the engine management replaced with a live hand grenade - a combination of extreme speed and pinball like bouncing sometimes gets me there before I explode, and march out of the flames like Terminator.

No, really, human eyes can't judge relative brightness. That's why it's OH MY GOD HURTING when you look at headlights at night, but fine in the day - I think it's called 'pupils' that cause this... faggit...

:D
>> Anonymous
>>75269
i hacked a manual fuel mixture control for my car
performance and fuel economy is improved
srsly
>> Anonymous
>>74798
lol, this guy tried to look cool, but failed horribly.
>> Anonymous
>>75301
I'm not trying to look anything. The fact is, there's a lot of shit on this board. Shitty snapshots of pets, shitty camera threads, shitty pictures of someone's computer desk. Poor composition, blown highlights, ridiculous amounts of noise, camera shake, fucked up focus, etc.

If I'm the only one here who'll make myself take the time to get things right, then so be it.
>> Anonymous
>>75464
How does removing a feature help that, though?

I taught myself to guess exposure and I'm pretty good at it and do it, at least initally, for upwards of 75% of my shots. I haven't stopped using a hand meter, I love my histogram to death, and I haven't gone out of my way to remove a perfectly useful feature from my camera.
>> Anonymous
>>74596
stereotypical dick who thinks he's the shit for shooting M on his point-and-shoot and has never done a real photography job.
>> Anonymous
>>75490
i used to shoot gas hypered films in a schmidt camera for work.
i have more hours in darkrooms than you have minutes letting software make your decisions for you at bar mitvahs.
i am a pro with actual knowledge and ability.
you are an amateur who gets paid.
>> Vincent
>>75543
Then post said shots, /p/ is nothing if not a biased and critical judge of ability. Lets see em!
>> Anonymous
Auto is fine, but I prefer adjusting.
>> Anonymous
>>74540
>lets say walking around town taking shots of architecture or people, or maybe flowers

Auto because the photos of random architecture and people on the street are usually quick and shitty.

Manual when I have strobes or are in a studio because any other setting would be for morons.
>> Anonymous
>>75543
All i have to say is... whoop-te-fucking doo.

That and: I have had more time in a darkroom than most people have hot dinners, I have shot more film in one week, than most people shoot in ten years (fuck that was an expensive week). and yet, I still use the lightmeter on all my cameras as a GUIDE. Of course i don't let it ultimately decide my exposure for me, but it assists. If you've switched off one of the most useful features of your camera, then IMHO (and probablyin the opinion of everyone else who reads this) you, sir, are an imbecile
>> Anonymous
>>75684you've switched off one of the most useful features of your camera
i operate a rolleiflex without such feature

>>74560For casual shooting and concerts, it's usually Av. For events (work-related shooting) I just go automatic, because I can't really risk missing a shot to adjust everything all the time.

i shit silver halide
>> Anonymous
>>75700
useful != necessary.
if its there, take advantage of its usefulness, if its not you can still deal with it.
>> Anonymous
>>75700
snap... well - rolleicord, near enough. I still find a handheld meter useful though.
>> Anonymous
itt: epic pissing contest.

seriously, using M doesn't mean you have a huge cock, or vice versa. it's just a personal preference.
>> Anonymous
shooting manual vs auto is like the difference between flying the plane or being a passenger...
>> Anonymous
>>75751

Wouldn't it just be more like automatic transmission versus a stickshift? YOu just have more control...