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oh samy's camera you boned me again!!! pskaught
just got a roll of film back, old roll from a few months back, first roll in this camera....

ME: So, I bought a shitty 35 body from you guys before and the flash sync is non-existant, I went down to 1/80th and still had half of my frame black. I need a good body that has a decent flash sync.

SC: oh, what do you mean flash sync?

ME: well my 5D does 1/160th flawlessly sometimes 1/200th depending on the head.

SC: okay, well this one is pretty good.

ME:this looks like the same camera..

SC: no its nicer, you shouldn't have any problems.

ME: so what is the flash sync?
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>> pskaught
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Kodak 160VC
28-135mm
shitty canon rebel.
this picture very obviously shows the flash sync problem.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeAgfaPhoto GmbHCamera Modeld-lab.2/3Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS MacintoshPhotographerOnly the Best :-))Image-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution100 dpiVertical Resolution100 dpiImage Created2007:12:10 12:53:26Color Space InformationsRGBImage Width900Image Height600
>> Anonymous
>>100147

How do I shot picture like this?
>> pskaught
>>100150
strobes and boobs with film.
done.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100147

cool location tho.

Interesting to see someone else using the 160VC-don't you have problems with grain and lack of color on it? i eventually got so frustrated at it that I switched to Astia.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100152

oops, meant to say lack of color and sharpness.
>> Anonymous
>>100147
what's the strobe on the upper left hand?
>> pskaught
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>>100153
VC has the most color, next to UC but that shit is just too noisy. Actually I don't think kodak works too well with 35mm still, I should have gone with some Fuji. BUT, 160VC looks like hot sex when it comes to 120.

here's another, the right side is very noticable in this one. She wasn't the best model either... BUT HEY! She pays well.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeAgfaPhoto GmbHCamera Modeld-lab.2/3Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS MacintoshPhotographerOnly the Best :-))Image-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution100 dpiVertical Resolution100 dpiImage Created2007:12:10 13:25:13Color Space InformationsRGBImage Width600Image Height900
>> pskaught
>>100155
speedotron 102 head, on an ancient 2400A pack.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100157

I tried to shoot it a couple of times and it just came out too soft and looked blurry, even though i know for sure i had it in focus. Ugh. I must admit though; the Astia is impressive.

cute model; not bad, but i really wish the handrail wasn't right in front of her. Kinda cuts her in half. What time do you normally like to start your outside photoshoots?
>> pskaught
>>100161
depends on what time of year and how much gear I have. Usually afternoon so I can get the sun behind her. Though, this part of year I could get away with any time of day.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100166

just wondering; i normally start around 1:45/2, then go till the sun goes down. You do get a really cool effect on all your shots
>> Anonymous
>>100147

What is wrong with that one? I'm probably missing the obvious because I am new to this.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100175

lower half is darker than the rest of her. The idea (most of the time) normally is to try and get a consistent, even light on the model.
>> Anonymous
>>100176

So that was caused by the shutter not quite being fast enough to let the exposure occur fully and evenly across the frame then? I think I get it now. It doesn't look as noticeable as the black band at the edge of>>100157
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100178

When the shutter opens and closes, the flash is supposed to be in sync with the shutter, so the light comes in even. Obviously, the dark areas are what is off. It's a killer, especially if you're depending on the strobes or lights/alien bee's. I could be wrong though; but the idea of a horseshoe is to attach it to the top of your camera, then it's job is to sync when the lights go off to when the shutter opens and closes. Camera must've been too slow.

I'm sure pskaught will correct me if i'm wrong :D
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>100179
Same concept even when the flash is off-camera, it should sync.
>> Anonymous
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>>100179

Camera-Specific Properties:Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS3 WindowsImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Created2007:12:10 17:56:21Color Space InformationsRGBImage Width1000Image Height500
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>100186

hhehehe
>> Anonymous
>>100186
i lol'd
>> Anonymous
1. Why can't you look up the maximum sync speed for yourself? It should be very easy to determine.,

2. If you're shooting with film and strobes, you shouldn't even bother with 35mm bodies. Get something medium format with leaf shutter lenses, then you'll have flash sync at all speeds.

>>100179

That's not quite how it works. What you are seeing in this picture is not a failure of the flash to sync properly, or any kind of malfunction. It's a failure of the photographer to know how to use his camera. Cameras with a focal plane shutter control have two methods to control the light they let through. At slower speeds, it's simply controlled by the duration that the shutter is open, but at higher speeds the curtain can't open and close completely fast enough. To get around that, the first curtain opens and is followed by the second curtain closing, with the distance between the curtains determining the amount of light let through. The duration of a flash is much faster than even the fastest shutter speeds possible with any common type of camera, so by necessity the flash can only light the whole picture if the whole frame is open to light when it fires. The fastest speed at which this happens is called the sync speed or maximum sync speed, and if you use a flash at a higher shutter speed it will not light the whole frame.

I have never seen a camera on which the sync speed was not clearly marked or indicated somehow, so it is the photographer's fault for not knowing what that speed is and staying below it.

Sync speeds on focal plane cameras are often quite slow and preclude the use of fill flash in bright environments. Some digital cameras work around it by emulating higher shutter speeds with the sensor rather than actually increasing the shutter speed, but generally the only way around it for a film camera is to use a leaf shutter. That's why leaf shutter cameras have been the standard for portrait photography for many, many years.
>> Anonymous
Why do digital cameras not have faster sync speeds if they don't need the same mechanisms as film? They don't need the same shutter system if they can just turn a sensor on and off, unlike film?

A lot of digicams seem slow for sync speeds.
>> ac !!VPzQAxYPAMA
>>100224
Because they still use the same mechanism as film cameras. Some of them, anyway. Others (the Nikon D70, for instance, off the top of my head) don't bother with an actual shutter and so they'll sync as fast as you want them to.
>> Anonymous
>>100228

Why don't they all just drop the shutter then if it works without it? Are there any advantages to having it that outweigh the disadvantages?
>> Anonymous
>>100229
ive read that electronic shutters often have some sort of problem with toning and creating some weird patterning in the image, especially at high speed and high isos.
>> Anonymous
>>100229
All the Nikon DSLR's with an electronic shutter still have shutters, they just don't activate unless the shutter is slower than 1/250s (If i remember right)

They let the flash sync up to 1/500 (unhacked) and 1/8000 (tape over 2 rear pins, or dumb non TTL flash)
>> pskaught
no shutter?
that sounds like a great way to burn out your sensor or get it all dusty and shitty.
>> Anonymous
>>100233

How do compacts get away with out it burning out then? (serious question)

I can see that dirt isn't a problem for a fixed lens, though from all the sensor cleaning kits around it doesn't look like shutters are stopping that.
>> Jeremo !iKGMr61IHM
>>100231

what other cameras aside from the D70s have /500 flash sync (unhacked)?
>> Anonymous
You could activate high speed sync on your flash.
>> pskaught
>>100235
hassleblad/mamiya

also, I think better strobes will get a better flash sync. so says the speedotron page.
>> Butterfly !xlgRMYva6s
I only have 1/150th flash sync (unless the A100/56H can do hss) which was quite annoying shooting at midday in blinding sun today.

F11 ftl.

nice pics pskaught as usual :P
>> Anonymous
>>100236

yup, turn that on and in return for a loss of GN you can get higher shutter speeds. a good compromise.
>> Also: bewwwwbs des
you don't even need to look it up if you're not familiar with the camera, just stick a dedicated flash on the body. I don't think there are any AF bodies that'll let you set the shutter speed higher than sync in Tv with a dedicated flash on it. There are quite a few MF bodies that wouldn't, even.
>> ac !!VPzQAxYPAMA
>>100234
Compacts have wee little tiny sensors. They don't generate a lot of heat, they don't take a lot of electricity to run. That's also why there hasn't been Live View on digital SLRs until just recently (and why the tiny-sensored 4/3 SLRs got it first).
>> Anonymous
>>100240

If you activate the HSS mode on the flash it will allow you to set the shutter speed up to maximum and only use the HSS style flash if it is above the normal sync speed.