File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
So, how could I have avoided blowing the hilights on this one?
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATIONCamera ModelNIKON D80Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS2 WindowsMaximum Lens Aperturef/1.7Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern822Focal Length (35mm Equiv)75 mmImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2007:05:31 10:47:35Exposure Time1/1600 secF-Numberf/5.0Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating500Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModeCenter Weighted AverageLight SourceUnknownFlashNo FlashFocal Length50.00 mmComment(c)SolutionsEtceteraColor Space InformationUncalibratedImage Width1105Image Height709RenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypeStandardGain ControlLow Gain UpContrastNormalSaturationNormalSharpnessNormalSubject Distance RangeUnknown
>> Anonymous
Dial in some EV compensation after checking the histogram after you blew the first shot. Or use center-weighted metering off the feet, or spotmetering on someting 18% grey in the scene.
>> Anonymous
>>54512
Exactly. Or, what I would've done (if I had the time, I don't know that you would've here) is spot-metered the feet and another area, then mentally averaged the two shutter speeds.

Of course, now, you could take this in Photoshop and darken the highlights. But I don't see why you would; I like them as they are.
>> ??????? !KEBab7wem6
     File :-(, x)
Like>>54512said, EV compensation or spot metering on the brighter parts. Good technique and gets you a good exposure with no parts too much blown out, only thing is that the other parts of the image won't get as exposed, but this is something you can easily fix in post.

If you're shooting RAW then there's another neat tool for this, too. I see you're using Nikon, so I'm not sure over how manipulatable the RAW images are, but in RAW images taken with a Canon body (at least CR2 images), you can adjust the exposure a lot afterwards to the extent of even recovering lost details from overexposed areas. Naturally, the tool is called 'Recovery', and can be found in the RAW Import dialog in Photoshop, or alternatively, in Lightroom.
>> Anonymous
Thank you for your help! It is much appreciated.