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Film SLR? Anonymous
ITT you tell me what nikon (only because I've already got lenses) film slr I should get. I want to start shooting film in the next few months, but don't have the slightest clue about non-digital cameras. Help me out, /p/.

Picture unrelated.
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>> Jeremo !iKGMr61IHM
...wow... you really need to do alot of learning before you start picking out a film camera. It's gonna be a kick in the nuts if you're going from a D40 to film.

...especially since it's the actual film you really should be focusing on.

As much as i would love to recommend the F6 and familyman the F5... go out and find an old F55.. F65 or the even older F50 and F60s... and of course the F100

they were the last batch of SLRs nikon made which are also auto focus. All aside from the F5 and F6 should be relatively cheap.

If you're buying second hand, make sure to check the condition to see if it's been used regularly, which is actually a good thing, the old SLRs have a habit of getting fungus in them when not used.
sage in the case of a troll.
>> Anonymous
>...wow... you really need to do alot of learning before you start picking out a film camera. It's gonna be a kick in the nuts if you're going from a D40 to film.

That's why I'm asking around 9+ months before I even consider dropping money on one.

I know I should be focusing on the film itself, but I don't mind making mistakes on consumables. I feel like a schmuck for buying a d40 and not buying a used d50 for the AF. I don't care if I buy the wrong set of batteries (or the wrong roll of film), as a few dollars down the drain is forgivable.


The F5 looks like a little to much beast for me to handle. Definately more money than I'm looking to spend on my first film camera - though I'd rather spend extra money on something better if I'm going to be handicapped by something worse.

I'm sure you're having a laugh at me buying something out of my league, but I do that for everything I do. My first bass, before I learned how to play, set me back 1100 dollars.
>> Anonymous
>>99823
you could always get something like an n8008. they go for like $15 used and would be perfectly fine to start.
>> Jeremo !iKGMr61IHM
>>99823

forgot to mention i think only the F60/F50/F5/F6 have TTL metering... i'm not entirely sure about the rest.

I'm not having a laugh, honestly, just don't want you to jump in thinking it's gonna be an easy ride.

My main point with saying film was the main focus was missed, mainly due to my poor communication. I meant the entire process of using film. Buying good film and developing... are you going to develop yourself?
>> Jeremo !iKGMr61IHM
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>>99823

oh my first manual car was this 400 BHP TT Supra (oh to be a teen again)... does it mean it was a wise decision? Insurance premium says no.

Going out of your league on your first go... really isn't an excuse for poor research... but honestly i know i sound like i'm having a go... but i am not.

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>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>99814

Nikon N65 is a good start out; I also shoot an N80 right now. I love both. I would recommend finding an N65 and starting with that. JMHO Opinion, though. Do you have a full array of lenses? Make sure you research and, if your lenses are very new, make sure your older camera can take the lens in the case of an autofocus.

And as for film; it depends on what type of shooting you want to do. Negative film is going to be (in most cases, with the exception of black and white films) lower quality than slide film. Grocery store film is obviously going to have grain and be a lower quality.
>> Anonymous
If you don't mind losing autofocus, go for an old Nikon F, F2, or F3 body. They're going for pretty cheap and are great cameras.
>> Anonymous
Speaking of film SLRs, which one is the closest in features/build quality/etc. to the EOS 30D? Would the Elan 7E fit this description?
>> Anonymous
I absolutely love the F4. The F5 is also a good choice. I think the F6 is a great camera, but way too expensive, and it won't really give you anything you wouldn't have with an F5. For something that has all the features of the F5 but is less expensive and lighter weight, the F100 is a good choice- I would actually pick the F100 over the F5. There are also the classic manual Nikons, most of which are a great choice. Probably the pinnacle of the MF Nikon bodies is the FM3A, but they're hard to find and expensive. The FM2n would be my next choice.
>> Anonymous
>>99859

not to mention built like a fuckin' tank. It would probably outlive OP.
>> Warren !WSxruxpIJs
With what better Nikon film bodies are going for these days I don't see any point in going with the consumer-oriented film SLRs unless your budget is REALLY small. An F3, F2, F4,F5, or F100 can be had for a few hundred if you look carefully and will stand up to ten times as much shit as something like a N60, N80, etc. Autofocus really isn't critical. In fact, while it can certainly be nice, if AF ceased to exist later on tonight, I wouldn't be too torn up about it. I would also recommend picking up a used incident meter and learning to use it well so you can nail your exposures, as you obviously won't have an LCD on which to review what you're taking.
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
My two cents is that, as long as you've taken the time to actually learn photography and not just rely on automated stuff, you should do fine with film. The biggest difference will be the inability to chimp, but you can wean yourself off that with digital. Kill some cheap film to test when you do get it.
Buy equipment that you know is good (hence this thread), learn it, and trust it. I grew up with film p&s's. I currently use a d40, I chose it for price and instant feedback for learning. I plan to switch over to film eventually. I've studied user guides for some of these cameras, like the n80, and it's easy to see what they're capable of. Photography is photography, whether it's film or digital, just the process will be different, that and the variation in film.
And yeah, high quality film bodies are cheap right now. An f4 on keh in excellent condition runs about 300. That's peanuts compared to the d40.
>> des
for the AF bodies, the n90s still has the best price/performance ratio, imo. Next, the F4s, whose used prices have been plummeting.
FE2 is still my favourite nikon, though.

It's kind of getting depressing, I got an estimate on repair for my FT2 and my first thought was, "Fuck, I could get an F4 for that." :/
>> Anonymous
>>101065

i carry my fe2 everywhere with me, but it's starting to lose it's cachet for me. i'm lusting after the F3 now. it's got a better viewfinder (and it's built better), which is why i carry my FE2 everywhere in the first place.

it's got worse flash sync, top shutter speed, and probably a worse meter, though. crappy trade-offs.

then there's the F3H, which shot at 13 (!!!) frames per second. i'd love to track one of these down just for shits and giggles.

http://www.cameraquest.com/nf3HS.htm
>> des
>>101074
I actually sold my F3hp, it annoyed me way, way too often and I stopped using it. If you do get one, the red-dot "E" screen is crazy great.
>> Anonymous
>>101110

how did it annoy you? clumsy layout?
>> Anonymous
>>101074
13 fps on a film camera?!
One wrong move of your finger and suddenly you're out of film. Oh shi-


On topic, my grandfather shoots Nikon and he prefers N65/N75 to everything else because they have full-auto mode in addition to P-A-S-M. I find it a bit strange for a nature photographer with 50 years of experience, but he shoots better pictures than me with all my photoshop trickery...
>> Anonymous
>>101190
How is full auto mode any different than /p/ except the exposure compensation button doesn't work?
>> Anonymous
>>101191
Oh, wow, habit.

"P" not "/p/."
>> Anonymous
>>101191

Usually a lot of the menu controls and settings are locked out while you are in the scene or basic modes.
>> Anonymous
>>101194
But why would he want that is what I'm wondering? What advantages would full auto have over program?
>> Anonymous
>>101191
I dunno, lol. Only thing I noticed is that he determines if the lighting is insufficient by the flash popping up.
>> Anonymous
>>101195

It's the safety that shields the user from their own stupidity or laziness in not reading the manuals. The green box is designed so it does everything for you and hides any complicated parts. Makes it work like a P&S. No worrying about ISO, aperture, etc. If you are used to clicking away without thought then the menus in DSLRs can be overwhelming.

I'm surprised to hear that a an experienced photographer would be so keen on it, but perhaps he has his reasons.
>> Anonymous
>>101198
how do I worried about ISO and menus on a *film* SLR?
>> Anonymous
>>101200

Stretching a meme too far.
>> Butterfly !xlgRMYva6s
>>101200
someone has clearly never seen a minolta.
>> Anonymous
>>101203
can the minolta transform my ISO 100 provia into ISO 1600?
>> Anonymous
>>101209
>>101203
>>101200

you guys are idiots, stop arguing about stupid shit. you're wasting our time and yours.
>> Anonymous
>>101215
I'm drunk, and Butterfly is, well, Butterfly. What do you expect?
>> Anonymous
>>101198
That's what I'm wondering: why an experienced photograph who wants everything automatically exposed wouldn't just use program.
>> des
>>101188
I got tired of fiddling with flash adaptors and I couldn't work as fast with it as my ft2 or fe. I did prefer its more centre-weighting for the meter but I really hated the LCD display and horrible backlight button. It's not a bad camera at all, we just couldn't come to terms. :)
>> Anonymous
>>101218
I'm drunk. I just bought a K10D <3
>> BlackAdder !!bSWRwu/NqzQ
>>101401

Connected?
>> Anonymous
>>101409
YES TO THE INTERNET
>> Anonymous
>>101409
ABSOLUTRELYK:R!

WA
itg WHAT?
>> Anonymous
Well if you wear glasses you'll either need auto-focus or contact lens. If the camera has a light meter you should learn very quickly which settings work and which don't.