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few time with my new camera Anonymous
Here is some of the first pictures that I have taken with my camera. Im new to photograph and some input would be great
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeOLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.Camera ModelE-500Camera SoftwareOLYMPUS Master 1.42Maximum Lens Aperturef/3.5Image-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution314 dpiVertical Resolution314 dpiImage Created2007:07:16 20:32:39Exposure Time1/400 secF-Numberf/9.0Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating1600Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModeSpotLight SourceUnknownFlashNo Flash, CompulsoryFocal Length150.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width2415Image Height1811RenderingCustomExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypeStandardGain ControlHigh Gain UpContrastNormalSaturationHighSharpnessNormalCompression SettingUnknownMacro ModeNormal
>> Anonymous
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heres another one I usually shoot in TIFF (which I've dicussed before here) but I had to convert it to JPEG.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeOLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.Camera ModelE-500Camera SoftwareVersion 1.0Image-Specific Properties:Image Width3264Image Height2448Number of Bits Per Component8, 8, 8Compression SchemeUncompressedPixel CompositionRGBImage OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution314 dpiVertical Resolution314 dpiImage Data ArrangementChunky FormatImage Created0000:00:00 00:00:00
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>62977

You're overexposing your shots way too much and making them look flat. Close your lens aperature a bit, you'll get more color and depth. As is, they're too washed out right now. I'd recommend getting a UV filter or a polarizing filter too (never hurts to start early).

Also: before you fall into a habit centering the subject in the middle of the photograph is a bad, bad idea. Play with your compositions some more, too.

Also: think about what you're shooting for a moment before you shoot. Why did you take the second shot? Trees are in the way, and a car too. Those are both otherwise distracting elements.

your bird would have been cool if you were able to get down on your knees and get a level shot with the bird, as opposed to a standing up looking down thing. If you have the lens for it, zoom in a little more, you don't have to have the bird in the whole shot in order to have a great shot.

(hope this wasn't too harsh, not meant that way)
>> elf_man !fBgo7jDjms
If the camera has an image option to increase the contrast, use it. Digital naturally makes images gray and flat, for the most part. Increasing contrast makes a huge difference.
Everything else, see Liska's comment.
>> Anonymous
>>63009
The picture of the bird was actually taken from my third floor balcony. AS for the second one I kind of liked the tree in teh foreground (couldn't do anything about the car though. And when you close the Aperture the number is actually increased correct?
>> Anonymous
And what would be the best way to reduce the exposer? close aperture? is there anything else I can do?
>> Anonymous
As>>63009said - way overexposed.
pic 1: you had your ISO set at 1600 -- way too light sensitive, your shutter can't go fast enough to stop the overexposure at that sensitivity. Plus that introduced a lot of noise into the picture.
Daylight pics especially you want to go with ISO 100 or 200

2nd pic had no usable exif info, but again you probably have your ISO too high and the camera can't use a fast enough shutter to compensate.

Bright light situations you want to use lower ISO numbers. After you get your ISO settings right, then look into the filter use as others mentioned. There are plenty of good introduction to photography sites out there that you might want to look at, to get an idea what ISO, shutter speed, F-stops and the like all mean and how they relate to each other. That basic knowledge will go a long way
>> Anonymous
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I have a robin pic too!

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATIONCamera ModelNIKON D80Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS2 WindowsMaximum Lens Aperturef/5.7Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern750Focal Length (35mm Equiv)450 mmImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2007:07:17 05:27:41Exposure Time1/50 secF-Numberf/5.6Exposure ProgramAperture PriorityISO Speed Rating100Lens Aperturef/5.6Exposure Bias-0.7 EVMetering ModePatternLight SourceUnknownFlashNo FlashFocal Length300.00 mmColor Space InformationsRGBImage Width1024Image Height685RenderingNormalExposure ModeAutoWhite BalanceAutoScene Capture TypeStandardGain ControlNoneContrastNormalSaturationNormalSharpnessNormalSubject Distance RangeUnknown
>> Anonymous
>>63083
Now this one, I really like. Great work!
>> Anonymous
>>63083
>>63085
agreed ... much much better. great depth of field, color saturation, composition, focus and detail
>> Anonymous
>>63083
I like it. A lot.
>> Anonymous
>>63083

very nice
>> Anonymous
>>63083
OP here
SO I can achieve something like that with an increased aperture value and lower ISO?
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>63288

I don't know about the ISO since i'm not digital (for me that's "film speed" but with a higher aperture? Yeah. Also remember that pointing the camera towards the sun is normally a bad idea and can contribute to the washing out
>> Anonymous
>>63289

film speed = ISO

Says the ISO right on a box of film..
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
>>63297

I'm aware of that; I said so. I wasn't sure if it worked differently on a digital camera since there is no actual film there to be used or dectected, as opposed to a regular film camera that I am shooting.
>> Anonymous
on digitals the ISO is an approximation to the corresponding film sensitivity. The higher ISO numbers generally have a lot more noise, especially on the smaller sensors
>> Anonymous
can someone explain the aperture to me abit?and if it has anyother names
>> Anonymous
>>63389
Dude, just go to your public library and pick up some books on photography. That's what I did.
>> Liska !!LIVFOETqL8j
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>>63389

the aperature is how much light you allow to come through your lens. "Opening up" Is setting everything at a lower number. Best used for night shots and so on. "Closing" is for higher numbers, when you want everything to come out darker no matter how bright it is. As an example, the shot i'm attaching was shot at a very bright sunset, with the focal point metering on the sun, at f22. Makes for a cool photo soemtimes, so it never hurts to play around and bracket (shoot the same shot with different aperatures for different effect)
>> elf_man !fBgo7jDjms
Wikipedia, too. This is basic research you should do on your own. Seriously, you can work though the basics of exposure in a very short time, this stuff isn't all that complicated. Also, google digital photography school, they're a blog, they have a good series of articles on exposure.
>> Anonymous
DOesn't aperture also add depth to the pciture?
>> Anonyfag of Borneo !bHymOqU5YY
>>63397
Yes, they influence a picture's depth-of-field.
>> Anonymous
>>63393

I saw the thumbnail and thought that was the moon. Looks cool

Changing the Aperture also plays with the shutter speed, Provided your in Aperture priority. The more you close the aperture (Bigger number) the slower the shutter speed, the less the number, bigger aperture, the faster the shutter speed. Whenever you are shooting with a small aperture, it's best usually to have a tripod, depending on what you are shooting.