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Anonymous
sup /photo/
a year ago I started using analog cameras, mainly because my old digital didn't have manual focus, only a useless macro-mode and of course no alternative lens. combining these it's kinda hard to photograph insects or spiders.

I have a NIKON N2000/F-301 and a N50/F50
(from my mum, she doesn't use them anymore)
which one should I use?

I like the 301 alot but since the f50 is somewhat newer I wonder if I should use it instead.

oh and something else. I'm not the best photographer or anything but I thought I could atleast use a manual focus. but some photos (like 1/3) are out of focus.

I see the picture sharp in the viewfinder.
I'm short-sighted but it's the same with and without my glasses.

so, am I doing something wrong, or am I just not observing the viewfinder good enough?
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
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>> des
>>64260
I'm fairly certain the F50 will not meter with AI lenses, you have to use AF or AI-P lenses. I would go with the 301, given the choices.

You might have a mirror alignment problem but that'd be kind of odd. Are you shooting wide open all the time? Are you certain that it's misfocus or is it camera shake?
Best way to make sure everything is alright without spending a lot of bucks is to get a 12-exposure roll of film and a tripod and do some tests.
You could also bring it to a shop to get a CLA. That's probably something you should do anyway, considering the age, especially if your mum never had it done.
>> ac !!VPzQAxYPAMA
Use whichever one you prefer. For the most part, a film camera is just a light-tight box. The quality of the pictures are determined by the film used (which is the same on either body), the lens used (which is the same on either body), and the brain used (which is the same on either body, and by far the most important factor).

Actually, if you want to manually focus, the older camera's probably better since the newer one (barring modifications to the standard base configuration of each of your cameras, according to a quick google search) has a focusing screen that's more autofocus-oriented. I.e., no split-screen rangefinder in the middle, which I find essential when I'm manually focusing. I pretty much never use manual focus mode on my Canon autofocus models unless I'm focusing on infinity or have a really long time to work (i.e., focusing on my girlfriends' breasts, which is always a pleasure and something one should take their time on).

Also, a lot of autofocus screens are just plain not designed for manual focus less than f/2.5 or so, so if you're trying to use it to manually focus a lens that's faster than that, you might want to stop it down to at least f/2.8.
>> Anonymous
>>64261
the 301 had a mirror alingment problem. that's why my mum got the f50.
I got the 301 repaired, and since I assume the guys in the shop did a good job, that can't be the case. atleast I hope so.
I did some tripod-tests as well; same there some photos in focus, some not.

>AI lenses, AF and AI-P lenses

difference?

>>64262
>no split-screen rangefinder

yeah, I never thought of that. god I would miss that.

anyway thanks for the sugggestions, I guess i'll stay with the 301.
>> des
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>>64265
AI are auto-index lenses, every nikkor mf lens made from the ~mid70s to now is AI.
All AF lenses are AI compatible (save the G lenses) so you can use them on older bodies. They have CPUs that enable metering on the low to mid-range SLRs like the N50, which have no AI ring coupling.
AI-P are AI lenses that are equipped with a CPU to talk to bodies with no AI coupling. There are only a few (4?) of these, you probably won't run into one in the wild without specifically looking for it. The most inexpensive one is the 45mm f/2.8 pamcaeks lens. It is bitty.
You can get AI lens modified to have a chip but for the price and time it takes, it's probably best to just get a body that understands AI. Like ac was saying, the ones that don't meter with AI probably aren't the best ones to use with mf lenses anyway.

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>> Anonymous
if you're going to shoot manual focus, get something from the 1980's. The FM2 or FE2 are both great: magnesium chassis, titanium shutters, gigantic viewfinders, the FE2 meters accurately at night out to a few minutes, plus you can pick either one up for probably 75-100 bucks. More expensive but even better are the F, F2 (especially F2AS) and F3.

Or you can go pick up an FM3A. It's more or less the only manual focus Nikon still in production. It's basically the FM2 (which is supposedly also still in production) and FE2 with better shutter control, etc. Pricetag is from 500 to 1500 bucks, though.
>> flagship vs fm3a des
>>64279
the FM3a is a great camera, more like an FE than an FM because it has an FE-style match needle rather than an FM (horrible imo) LED jobber.
It is *not* in production and hasn't been for some years, probably why the used market prices are still elevated. You can pick up flagship bodies for less than FM3a prices.
The only two nikon film bodies in current production are the F6 and the FM10, which is produced by Cosina and not based on older FM/FE bodies.
I've heard from many people that the F4s, while an AF body, is one of the greatest MF bodies nikon ever put out. I probably wouldn't disagree and by the prices over at KEH, you could pick up an F4s, the focusing screen of your choice and still have money left over for a brick of velvia (or an FE body!) vs the cost of an FM3a. The only reason I'd see, personally, to get an FM3a is nostalgia. If you didn't cut your teeth on a nikkormat or FM/FE series, it's *probably* not worth the bread. Even nostalgia and the death of my nikkormat ft2 hasn't been enough to tempt me... yet.
>> Anonymous
>>64307

bummer that it's not still in production. k, op. scrap my fm3adfakdfalkdj suggestion. Just go get an FE2 or F2-4. If you want to shoot Nikon, that is.

For all my Nikon love, the Minolta X-370 and X-700 will always hold a special place in my heart. My X-370 ran on one watch battery for probably 8 years, survived being dropped off the back of a speeding four-wheeler, abuse at the hands of my nitwit high school self, etc. Smaller and lighter than the FE2 as well.
>> Anonymous
>>64279
fm2 for 75-100 $ ? are you outta yo mind?

>>64331
had an x-370. it was shit. Had lots of curtain problems and does not work if the bat. is dead. An unforgivable design flaw. Pentax k1000 is far better and in the same range. For all it's worth, I have had 2 f4's for 15 years now.
best fucking camera i have ever handled. Heavy fuckers but they can go into war (and mine have) and back, beat up, scratched but working just as well as the day I bought them. Unbeatable camera.
>> Anonymous
>>64722
Holy fuck! You're right. Keh's got both the FM2 and FE2 listed for $375 at excellent condition. Guess I better start babying mine.

Then again, ebay's got some listed for 16 bucks. Go fig.
>> des
>>64806
KEH underrates their stuff pretty well. All the excellent rated things I've bought from them looked completely unused.
I'd much rather have a KEH "BGN" than an ebay "mint."