File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
C&C

Canon AE-1
XP2 pushed to 1600
EXIF data available. Clickhereto show/hide.
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>> Anonymous
c&c?
>> Butterfly !xlgRMYva6s
>>292731
command and conquer
>> Anonymous
>>292735

Yeah but Im guessing thats not what the OP meant?
>> Butterfly !xlgRMYva6s
>>292738
Critisim and Critique iirc.
>> Anonymous
>>292750
Thanks
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>292735
Right.

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>> ac !!VPzQAxYPAMA
>>292750
Comments and critique.

Criticism and critique are the same thing (more or less)
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>> else !L6xabslN96
>>292728
>pushed to 1600
what does this mean? sorry, digifag here. planning my first film shoot for this weekend

really awsome photo btw, i love the perspective: how the repeating pole-things lead your eye to the girl in perfect focus. and all the repeating elements that balance out the photo, and that you've captured an entire scene with depth. perfect composition, and subtle too. i love it. i wonder how it would've looked in colour...
>> Anonymous
>>292769

Reflections. Look at the pattern of them.
>> Anonymous
>>292797
A slower film (400 speed) pushed to 1600 speed in development. It's like shooting something digital in ISO 400 and then pushing it two stops in Camera Raw so that it matches ISO 1600.
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>292797
I'm useless at explaining, but i'll give it a go

Basically op used ISO 400 film. but on his camera, he shot it exposing it as if it was 1600. 2 stops underexposing the film basically.

But when it came to developing the film, he processed it as if it were 1600, bringing back the exposure. "overexposing" the film by 2 stops to bring it back to a 'normal' exposure.
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>292807
Forgot to add:
people do this to get 'as much' out of the film's dynamic range as possible.
>> else !L6xabslN96
>>292807
surely there are side-effects and trade-offs to this? interesting, i must look this up. i don't have my own darkroom tho, i'll be sending it to a shop until i figure out something.
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>292810
Do you own a manual film camera? Cos you can do it yourself easily.
When you select the film speed on the camera dial, change it to whatever ISO you like. OP used 400 film, set his camera to 1600. The cameras meter then thought the film was faster than it actually was, so exposed differently etc. (Underexposing the film)

Anyway, after that just take it to a local lab, ask them to process it at either a given stop amount, or just tell them an ISO. For example if you'd done the adove, ask the nerd behind the counter to Push-Develop to 1600.

Grain usually becomes more visible, also you loose details in the blacks.
You can do the opposite (pulling) which is basically the reverse of whats above to get more detail in the blacks etc.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>292797

This person got it pretty much right.
>>292805
I only had basic 400 film and as I was shooting at night I set the camera to 1600. Basically this makes the camera expose everything as if you had 1600 film in, therefore underexposing everything by two stops. Then when you come to develop it you leave it in the developer for longer and it is then the same as pushing a RAW file two stops. That's one of the benefits of shooting film, you can under/overexpose so much more than you can with digital and still bring it back.

Glad you liked it. My friend said I looked creepy taking the photo (I took it through the window), so glad it wasn't in vain.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNikonCamera ModelNikon COOLSCAN IV EDCamera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS3 MacintoshImage-Specific Properties:Image OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2008:11:11 17:14:04Color Space InformationsRGBImage Width727Image Height482
>> Anonymous
Does 4chan lag for anyone else? I was refreshing while the image was uploading and it said there were no more posts, then when it finally uploaded, I refreshed and there were five other comments.
(This is why I repeated why Martin said)
>> Anonymous
>>292800
distracting reflections are distracting
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>292821
I get that, its firefox. It stores a cache of the webpage.
Sometimes I'll see new threads on the mainboard of /p/, click on them and they're missing posts from the end.

If you're on firefox: Tools -> Clear Private Data. (CTRL-SHIFT-DELETE)
Annoying as fuck -.-
>> Anonymous
>>292814Anyway, after that just take it to a local lab, ask them to process it at either a given stop amount, or just tell them an ISO. For example if you'd done the adove, ask the nerd behind the counter to Push-Develop to 1600.

Be careful with this. When I was in the States I couldn't find anywhere where they actually knew how to do it. Took it to Target/Ritz, all the places that I thought would have been able to and they were all like 'Umm ya we have to send that away to a specialist it'll be about a week'.

Also, if they do say they can do it, make sure they know how to. Funnily enough when I got this film developed the guy said he'd do it, and then didn't. Make sure they don't just say 'okay' because they don't know what you're talking about.
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>292825
Extending on this:
Send it off if you don't develop your own
I've had so many films damaged from labs.. -_-

Developing black & white is piss easy also.
>> else !L6xabslN96
>>292828
i'll be using and independent 2nd hand camera shop because they develop film as well. and i'm pretty sure they know what they're doing since they specialise in selling old SLRs and lenses.

i'm still reading up on everything though. havent even loaded the film in my camera yet until i reckon i know enough about film not to fuck up.

for backstory:
>>292690

meanwhile can you filmfags list some film you use for certain situations? i got myself a roll of Ilford HP400 on recommendation from anon.
>> Anonymous
MOAR PIC PLEASE?
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>292833
I used to work in a little family run photo lab. They only stocked Fuji Superia 400, Fuji Sensia 200 (slide) and Ilford XP2 (C41 B&W)
I got them for free and free developing. They all did me fine. As far as I know Superia is pretty much the cheapest film you can get.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNikonCamera ModelNikon COOLSCAN IV EDImage-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2008:11:12 15:32:40
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
>>292833
I only use b&w because I don't know how to develop colour.. yet ;-)

V.Low light situations: Ilford DELTAAAA 3200iso
Overcast days etc: Ilford HP5 400iso
Studio\bright sun: Ilford FP4 125iso
I avoid PAN-F at all costs, don't think its print quality is all that.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
One that didn't survive the lack of pushing.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNikonCamera ModelNikon COOLSCAN IV EDImage-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2008:11:12 15:32:51
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>292833
i use tri-x if i dont really know what im going to be taking pictures of.. its very tolerant of fucking up. you can also push it to 1600 pretty easily, or hell use diafine and rate it at 1250 and get the same grain you would at 400 in any other developer.

i use pan-f if i know im going to be shooting in bright sunlight, allows me to keep the lens a bit more open to either get less depth of field, or to just lose less image quality due to diffraction. its also good at keeping fine detail and gradiation if you expose it correctly.
developers are also important, some like rodinal make a picture appear very sharp but increase grain, others reduce it but slightly blur the image, there's lots and lots of different effects they all have.
pic is pan-f in hc-110

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>> else !L6xabslN96
>>292858
you certainly like taking photos through glass :P

>>292868
so i guess iso400 is generally more versatile because it's in the midrange. this is what you'd pack if say, you were to shoot in the evening -> night?
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>293092
Ha, ya I just walk around. It's more often at night so there's less people on the streets.
Also I guess it takes out a layer of human interaction.
If they don't like me doing it, they're going to have to get out the shop/restaurant to chase me.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakeNikonCamera ModelNikon COOLSCAN IV EDImage-Specific Properties:Horizontal Resolution300 dpiVertical Resolution300 dpiImage Created2008:11:12 03:38:34
>> Anonymous
>>293098
We have a voyeur in /p/ hah!

I been taking B&W film and i was using FujiFilm Across Neopan 100. I would say that this film is a very neutral film and is meant for daytime situations
Then i moved on to Hp5400 and man does it have clear crisp prints. I heard Kodak films were great too.

By the way did you use any flash? or just Camera alone.

How long did you exposed the film and what were your shutter speeds? 1/125? 1/250??
>> Anonymous
and obviously you opened your aperture all the way open most of the time right? 2.8~
>> Anonymous
>>293238
>>293239
No idea what the shutters were. The AE-1 doesn't tell you, you just set the aperture and hope it won't stay open for too long.
And they were all wide open at 1.8 (50mm)
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>293275
It tells you in the viewfinder, on the right.
>> Anonymous
>>293319
No it tells you an aperture from 8 or something to 2.8
I have the AE-1 Program
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>293275

The shutter speed dial is on the right

if you don't know the shutter speed then you either got lucky or...
>> elf_man !!DdAnyoDMfCe
>>293393
Sorry, misread, thought you were couldn't locate the aperture.
And you said AE-1, no idea what the Program looks like.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>293406
Looks like this.
I was about to take a photo of it when I realised I hadn't brought it back with me to uni this time.

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>> Anonymous
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45pZyomwsns