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Eric
Any suggestions for
BW 35mm film and
C-41 Film?
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>> Anonymous
Tri-X or T-max.
>> Anonymous
>>100337
>C-41
>> Lynx !!KY+lVSl0s2m
t-max 100 and 400, love em both.
>> thefamilyman !!rTVzm2BgTOa
Fuji NPC, NPS, NPH, NPZ
Kodak 160NC, 160VC, 400NC, 400VS, 800NC
take your pic, they are all great...
all suit different needs.
>> angrylittleboy !wrJcGUHncE
>>100333

T-Max 400. If you're a cheapskate like me, Neopan400.
>> Eric
thanks all, I think what I am going to do is just order one or two of each see what I like and explore from there. I have been focusing to much on my digital work then 35 and 120 that I sort of lost some touch.
>> Anonymous
Are you ONLY going to make prints from the colour film? If you have any desire to scan them, don't touch C-41.

C-41 film is very technically inferior and has many shortcomings in colour reproduction that need to be corrected for in processing. Also, add the short shelf-life and it's basically worthless stuff unless you want fast, cheap prints and no scanning.

As for B+W stuff, T-Max 400 is great stuff. I haven't shot any, but my friend just processed a roll of Ilford HP2 and it looks great.
>> thefamilyman !!rTVzm2BgTOa
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>>100375
I beg to differ...
C41 isn't as bad as you make it to sound.
colour reproductions are all relative to the type of films you use, NPC looks slightly different to NPS, as Provia 100F does to Velvia 100F.
I scan all my colour print films, and never need to correct any. As for shelf life, i hardly call it short.
convenience is C41's greatest strength, i much prefer waiting 30mins for a roll of 160VC to get developed than 1 week for E6 for me.

Pic: From a roll of some cheap and nasty Konica film developed about 10 years ago, scanned a short wile ago with no correcting needed.

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>> Anonymous
for black and white, i would seriously recommend just buying a brick of a specific film and only shoot that until you run out. it's the only way you'll learn the look of a film. you should also consider developing them yourself. You don't need a super fancy darkroom, just a bathroom. Films respond differently to different developers. Unless you know exactly what developer your film lab is using, you'll never know if tri-x is supposed to be that grainy, etc etc etc.

C41 print film: the Portra series is great. It's Kodak's last hurrah before they run themselves out of business. One of my favorite films is Fuji Superia 400, but i'm willing to wager that just about any of the slightly more expensive photojournalism C41 films are even better.

The absolute most important thing to remember, however, is to rate your print film 2/3 of a stop slower than it is, or overexpose by 2/3 of a stop every time. Print film actually performs better when it's overexposed. Unlike slide and monochrome film, however, it turns to absolute shit if it's underexposed by even 1/3 of a stop. It took me three years to figure this out, why half of my prints came out muddy and grainy and total crap.
>> Anonymous
I use Illford HP. It's rather cheaper and seems to treat me well.