File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
Sup /p/,

So, I was fortunate enough to get an Olympus OM-1 at a pawn shop for only $45. And it's in excellent shape (Not as nice as the one pictured of course).

I've wanted to get into film for a while, and while I know most of the basics, I still have a long ways to go.

I have it loaded with 1600 ISO film right now because I've been taking pictures mostly and night and at sports games, but I have yet to fully understand what differences each type of film number presents. Could someone explain?
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>> OPFOR !8vKpfCqy8A
Film number? Do you mean ISO? Can you explain your question differently? My first camera was an OM-1 and I learned a lot playing around on that camera.
>> Anonymous
OK, go here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_speed
This is a common question, I'm sure no-one wants to waste time explaining.
It's nice to see a photographer who appreciates old film cameras.

Cheers
>> Anonymous
OP Here - Yes, I was talking about ISOs, sorry, should have been clearer. Thanks for the link. This camera is just damn amazing, I'll post some pictures up soon.

A also have another question; developing your own film? Any guides out there that will allow me to figure it out on my own? Or is it more of a "person-to-person" teaching process?
>> Anonymous
>>85501
Yeah, ISO refers to speed of the film. Twice the ISO = Double the film speed. So if you can get a properly exposed shot at 1/60th with ISO400 film, you'd be able to do 1/120th with ISO800 and 1/240th with ISO1600.

As for learning to develop film, google for "develop black and white film". Lots of info. If you're looking to develop color film, pretty much just give up. It's not really worth the hassle.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>85501
The downside being, of course, higher ISO = grainier picture, in general. Grainy-as-fuck ISO1600 picture related. It's even worse if you're shooting with ISO1600 color negative.

(Picture's boring, but it's a good example of the grain. Delta 3200 at ISO1600, taken with my Minolta srTsc II)
>> Anonymous
>>85506
I keep thinking that David lynch is in the background somewhere
>> Anonymous
>>85504
>As for learning to develop film, google for "develop black and white film". Lots of info.
Yeah, it's easy as fuck and can be done with a minimal amount of hardware. You'll need:
-A development tank
-A film leader extractor
-Chemicals, storage bottles and a fluid measuring device
-Someplace dark (to load the film into the tank. Actual development can take place in daylight)

If you want prints you can buy an enlarger, paper, paper trays, paper wash and paper dev or a negative scanner ;)
>> bw -> don't buy pre-rolled non-specialty films des
>>85687
>>-A film leader extractor
no don't

Get a daylight loader and some canisters load your own film. Welcome to the world of cheaps.
>> Lynx !!KY+lVSl0s2m
It's not terribily worth it to develop your own color film. I work at walgreens so I just develop my own all day long and scan the negatives at home.
I believe we charge 2.15$ for negatives only. Also, ask for them uncut and cut them yourself. We destroy pictues with our cutting machine, I can't count how many times I've cut negatives in half what that thing.
>> ac !!VPzQAxYPAMA
>>85687
>-A film leader extractor
Not needed. Just need a can opener to pop off the top of the film canister. And a light-free room to do it in, obviously.

Also useful: Funnel, thermometer, stopwatch
>> Anonymous
>>86105
>Not needed. Just need a can opener to pop off the top of the film canister. And a light-free room to do it in, obviously
Aye, you're right. It's a convenience more than a necessity, especially if your camera's got a leader-out custom fn. I just like keeping the amount of tool-fumbling in darkness to a minimum ;)