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Anonymous
I want to start getting into astrophotography, I was wondering what kind of camera /p/ recommends and/or uses?

I'm thinking of an old Olympus OM1 or Leica R3, something completely manual.

Does heat create noise during the exposure?

And lastly, do most/any DSLRs these days have a bulb setting? Becase I want to do exposures of at least half an hour (I have a hard on for star trails).

Much love.
>> Anonymous
>Does heat create noise during the exposure?

With digital it does. With film, the amount of grain is set. There's something called a reciprocity law failure that comes in with long film exposures, but I have no clue what it is.

If you're looking for an old film SLR and willing to shell out Leica cash, get an SL or SL2. Their reputation for insanely bright viewfinders is true; a couple weeks ago I was in one of those hardcore small local photo stores, and an SL2 was just left lying out on a counter, randomly. I picked it up, looked through the viewfinder, and metaphorically came.

As for the DSLR bulb setting thing, I don't know.
>> Anonymous
>>82105
Yes, most dSLRs have a bulb setting. With Canons, at least, you can use the wireless remote to open and then close the shutter (first press opens, second closes), so you don't have to touch the camera to make it go.
>> Anonymous
the types of films needed for beating reciprocity law failure are no longer manufactured, go digital. there are techniques for beating sensor noise if you can get raw images. if your eyes are adapted to the dark you'll be able to see just fine through the viewfinder. as for a camera, i recomend a H3 if you can afford it ROFL XD
>> Anonymous
>>82106
thats a good tip. you can use the self timer as well
>> Jeremo !iKGMr61IHM
>>82106

same with Nikon... though i wish you could do the same with the wired remote... can't seem to find my wireless
>> Vincent
D50 has minimal amp glow, Though i think the best DSLR for astrophotography is a 20Da (Its modded, anda bout 2000$ i think)

Also do you have an equitorial mount? or do you just plan on taking star trails?
>> mondodizmo
if you want that shot in the OP you'll have to shoot towards the north star (polaris)
>> Anonymous
>>82127
thanks, that is obviously a southern hemisphere shot astrophotography expert
>> Anonymous
>>82105
reciprocity law has to do with colour, which isnt a big problem for pictures of tiny dots
>> Anonymous
Thanks for the helpful advice everyone.

>>82116
Well maybe one day I'll get an equatorial mount, but I'll stick to shooting star trails for now. And I did see the 20Da, it's bloody nice, but a bit too expensive for me at the moment.
>> Anonymous
>>82164
uh, it has to do with exposure times with long exposures or really short exposures on film.
>> Anonymous
>>82194
It deals with exposure, not colors.

It has to do with how many photons are needed to hit a "speck" on the film for it to "expose" If for example it is only hit with 5 photons in the first 10 minutes it might "reset" and have ot get hit with the threshold of 10 (or however that works)

It sometimes means for a 10 mnute exposure on digital (which simply adds up the photons) It might need to be 30 minutes long to get the same exposure...
>> Anonymous
>>82229
yeah, except more extreme. a few minutes on digital would probably add up to over an hour. i never did that kind of stuff with film so i dont know the specifics, but i know it gets really bad.
>> Sicko !L3HRY/miC.
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Eh, pretty shit. Haven't tried since.

Camera-Specific Properties:Equipment MakePENTAX CorporationCamera ModelPENTAX K100DCamera SoftwareK100D Ver 1.00Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color AreaColor Filter Array Pattern57312Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mmImage-Specific Properties:Image Width3040Image Height2024Number of Bits Per Component12Compression SchemeUnknownPixel CompositionUnknownImage OrientationTop, Left-HandHorizontal Resolution72 dpiVertical Resolution72 dpiImage Data ArrangementChunky FormatImage Created2007:09:16 00:11:08Exposure Time15 secF-Numberf/0.0Exposure ProgramManualISO Speed Rating200Exposure Bias0 EVMetering ModeCenter Weighted AverageFlashNo FlashFocal Length0.00 mmRenderingNormalExposure ModeManualWhite BalanceManualScene Capture TypeStandardContrastNormalSaturationNormalSharpnessNormalSubject Distance RangeDistant View
>> Anonymous
>>82251
do a dozenf those then align and stack them with software and brighten the background until you can see it. you destroyed most of the data that was in the image when you saved it to a black background jpeg