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Anonymous
/p/hotoshop thread
lets share our techniques, and ask questions

I'll start; when applying sharpening to a photo do you do it before or after you've resized it?
>> Anonymous
>>276218
I make multiple copies of the same photo with different effects on it after I resize 'em, but that's just me.
>> Anonymous
when working in raw I tend to only use curves and USM i do this before resizing but resize using the cubic sharpen option
>> Martin !!ve2Q1ETWmJH
I process all my photos in original sizes first, as they are the files that will be sent for print. This includes sharpening, dodging etc.

When resizing for web-review, I simply resize & sharpen again when needed.
>> Anonymous
I dump a load of cum on my scanner and scan that onto my PC, I then use the texture to add epicness onto my pictures. I make sure my cum is spread neatly to form a thin layer with thick, uneven spots, trying to recreate photography paper stains found in old photos. Then I gently lift of the film from the scanner and feed it to my dog, take a picture of my canine chowing down on civilizations upon civilizations, showing that dogs can be gods. I apply the scanned texture in PS and that's it.
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>276227
>> Anonymous
Sharpening should always be done last and only for the size it will be used at.
>> Anonymous
>>276227

Guaranteed to get into the Tate.
>> Anonymous
>>276236
would you apply USM at full size, then resize it and sharpen again or just sharpen once after resizing?
>> Anonymous
>>276246

Only sharpen once. If I am going to resize it then I resize to the required size and then sharpen. No point in sharpening it, resizing and then resharpening again.
>> Anonymous
I burn or dodge every tiny detail that I feel needs burning or dodging, at least the shadows and highlights are even, though it's tiem consuming.
>> Butterfly !xlgRMYva6s
     File :-(, x)
Can't unsee.
>> Anonymous
/facepalm.
>> Anonymous
I recently discovered the high pass filter trick for sharpening. Works waaaay better for sharpening than USM and it can be done using adjustment layers so your not messing with your original. Other than that, slight USM only after resizing if necessary.
>> BurtGummer !!RRMHFHglFsy
ProTip:

When using Unsharp mask on people the best result settings are:

Amount: 15
Radius: 85
Threshold: 0
>> Anonymous
>>276264
lies
>> BurtGummer !!RRMHFHglFsy
>>276266

not really, it helps to bring up the image without too much contrast, ideal for portraits which didnt get ideal exposure.

I actually got this from a magazine tutorial, dont blame me if its wrong, but it seems pretty accurate, i use it quite a lot.
>> Anonymous
>>276270
what about for buildings/landscapes etc?
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>276264
>> beethy !vW/UaE6zYU
There's no real perfect sharpening setting.
Just twiddle with the sliders enough to get a good feel of it. Even if it's too strong after sharpening you can still fade the effect.. or just retry.
Don't rely on copying values.
>> Anonymous
>>276264
Actually this is 'correct'. Not a good way to sharpen up a photo, but gives a good bit of local contrast. Sharpening after all is just about adding contrast to the edges, but to get crisp results you need a small radius.

My tip, not any way related to sharpening:
Always use the hue/saturation tool for photos with green on them. Modify the yellow (yes, yellow) tones towards right (hue slider). Pops it out nicely, especially on macro shots.
>> Anonymous
>>276251
It's better to sharpen twice.

The first time is just a working sharpening and it's usually pretty low. Then you resize if necessary and sharpen for whatever your output is. The amount of sharpening used for web or different sized prints is drastically different.
>> Anonymous
>>276332

7/10