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Anonymous
>>227301 This is a viable workflow, but what I do is this:
1. Adobe Camera Raw / Lightroom (same thing, different UI) If I overexposed for more dynamic range, pull it back to where I would've exposed it if I was going for the mark. (More on this in a minute.) 2. Boost blacks up, give it some richness. 3. Futz everything else around as well as you can. 4. NR, sharpening to zero. Photoshop does these better, although I sometimes do use the sharpen tool when I feel it's appropriate. 5. Go into Photoshop proper for fine-tuning.
In other words, find your own workflow that gets the results you want.
The big website for learning the technical side of photography is the Luminous Landscape. Two quick Photoshop tips from me:
1. To get the best raw file possible, overexpose it as much as possible without blowing anything you don't want to blow. Because of the way digital sensors work, it will have less noise, better tonality, and more dynamic range the brighter it is, without being blown out of course. Use the histogram on your camera and keep in mind point light sources can often be blown out and everything be fine.
2. When you're dodging/burning:
1. New layer. 2. Select softlight. 3. Fill with 50% softlight neutral color.
Do all your dodging/burning in layers like this one, for some reason it just gives better results, don't know why. I can't claim credit for finding either of these, but I use them on almost every image.
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