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Anonymous
1. Why can't you look up the maximum sync speed for yourself? It should be very easy to determine.,
2. If you're shooting with film and strobes, you shouldn't even bother with 35mm bodies. Get something medium format with leaf shutter lenses, then you'll have flash sync at all speeds.
>>100179
That's not quite how it works. What you are seeing in this picture is not a failure of the flash to sync properly, or any kind of malfunction. It's a failure of the photographer to know how to use his camera. Cameras with a focal plane shutter control have two methods to control the light they let through. At slower speeds, it's simply controlled by the duration that the shutter is open, but at higher speeds the curtain can't open and close completely fast enough. To get around that, the first curtain opens and is followed by the second curtain closing, with the distance between the curtains determining the amount of light let through. The duration of a flash is much faster than even the fastest shutter speeds possible with any common type of camera, so by necessity the flash can only light the whole picture if the whole frame is open to light when it fires. The fastest speed at which this happens is called the sync speed or maximum sync speed, and if you use a flash at a higher shutter speed it will not light the whole frame.
I have never seen a camera on which the sync speed was not clearly marked or indicated somehow, so it is the photographer's fault for not knowing what that speed is and staying below it.
Sync speeds on focal plane cameras are often quite slow and preclude the use of fill flash in bright environments. Some digital cameras work around it by emulating higher shutter speeds with the sensor rather than actually increasing the shutter speed, but generally the only way around it for a film camera is to use a leaf shutter. That's why leaf shutter cameras have been the standard for portrait photography for many, many years.
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