File :-(, x, )
Anonymous
So I have a baby red-eared slider which is approximately the size of the one in the pic. It's the first pet I've had aside from goldfish when I was a kid, and I'm absolutely lost. It refuses to eat anything. I gave it pellets and young dandelion leaves, and it refuses to eat both. Instead, it keeps swimming against the wall of its tank. I've had it for a day now and it still hasn't done anything besides swim against the wall. I set up a basking area with some flat rocks, and it didn't use it.

It's getting weaker. Is there any hope for him? (I think it's a male but I'm not sure) How can I get him to eat? Also, what size of tank should I buy? Many websites say I should get a 50 gallon tank for it but I have a feeling it'll be too large for a 2 inch turtle.
>> Anonymous
Is the tank heated? How deep is the water? Does he has proper lighting? Before any reptile will consider eating, it needs to be warm enough. You've also had the turtle for a short time, so give him a bit longer to settle down.

Many people buy turtles when they're still very tiny, and more often than not, they end up dying. Turtles need a lot of care, probably more than you realize. Caring for a turtle is nothing like caring for a fish, besides the fact they both like to swim. Turtles need underwater heating, proper lighting, a filter in the tank, water but also a place to bask, greens as a well as pellet foods (and they also love little shrimps as a treat). They need a big tank, because if they survive, they will grow really big, but I'd hold off on buying such a big tank just yet because he's still so tiny. If you haven't yet, buy a book, and continue to do more research. If he continues to not eat and bang against the glass, you may want to go to the vet.
>> Anonymous
>>307147
Unfortunately he's still in those really tiny tanks that come with them. As I said, I'm going to buy a tank tomorrow, along with a heating/lighting system. Right now I'm changing the water as constantly as I possibly can to keep it warm, and placing a naked lightbulb over his tank. A friend suggested putting deeper water in it, so right now the water is twice as deep as the turtle is tall. I think that might not be enough, but I'll wait and see.

I realize that about turtles being harder to keep than fish. If all fails, I'm going to give him to a friend who has the proper skills and resources. I'm holding off for a few days, because I moved him around for a bit until finding a spot that he seemed somewhat pleased with. As for the banging against the tank, I assume it's just because he wants more space. He's stopped banging against the tank's glass, which I'm not sure is good or bad; it might mean he's adjusting, or it might mean he doesn't have any energy left.
>> Anonymous
its typical for baby turtles to be stubborn about eating. just get a small tank or flat rubber maid for it since its so small....esp since it isnt eating dont make the water sooo deep...making him waste energy even more since it refuses to eat. what i do is i buy a feeder fish...something small like a baby gold fish or guppy. get a fish and slit it a little or just cut the fish so the baby turtle can smell the blood and entice him to eat. you might want to leave the room and spy on him cause alot of the times they are shy at first and wont eat in front of you. he/she should eventually feel enticed by the smell of blood...just keep offering it. baby res are more carnivorous, only adults are omnivorous. if it still wont eat after a few days it might be sick and theres nothing you can really do.

make sure the turtle can climb on the dock...res arent exactly the most agile of creatures. and it isnt going to get on the dock when your watching. itll start basking and eating in front of you when it decides your safe and realizes your are the one that magically provides food and light(basking light). patience is key! once they get the picture your the food provider itll become the most annoying attention whore.

as for gender, you wont be able to tell if its male or female till its much older. like 4?5? inches bigger.

good luck and this site is pretty helpful. if your really worried ask the forum.

http://www.redearslider.com/
>> Anonymous
     File :-(, x)
>>307155
That's good to hear. The turtle should definitely perk up when he is in a tank that is heated, as well as with proper lighting. As for the water, deeper is better, as long as he has a place to dry off and bask if he wants to.

Not my tank, but this picture from google shows basically what you need (though you don't need that many heat lamps) and how deep the water should be.
>> Anonymous
Mine used to love eating fish food. I don't think it was very healthy for him though.
>> Anonymous
>>307163
Isn't that tank a bit small for a turtle that size?
>> Anonymous
>>307172
Yeah, it is. My turtle is about that size and his tank is much bigger. It's huge. But that was one of the first good pics on google images, and the OP's turtle is still tiny.
>> Anonymous
>>307147
>>307155
>>307163
Thanks a lot, /an/ denizens. You people are really awesome. If there's any more advice you want to give, feel free to do so. The website was especially useful, and was really reassuring.
>> Anonymous
>>307180
stick the turtle in your butt
>> Anonymous
I found on of those in my yard once..I kept it for about a week but it wouldn't eat anything so I finally just let it go...I prefer box turtles anyways lol but idk..I those those turtles are just stubborn. You should try buying small fish and put him/her in a small tank with them and maybe he'll eat those
>> Anonymous
Contrary to popular misconception, Red-eared Sliders do not produce saliva, but--like most aquatic turtles--they have fixed tongues. This is the reason they must eat their food in water.

Red-eared Sliders are omnivores and eat a variety of animal and plant materials in the wild including, but not limited to fish, crayfish, carrion, tadpoles, snails,and will eat other turtles, aquatic insects and numerous aquatic plant species. The captive diet for pet RES should closely match the natural diet and can also include other foods such as feeder fish, dead, thawed fuzzy mice, earthworms,small snakes , cooked egg with the crumbled shell included, hermit crab food, and leafy greens. Commercial turtle foods should be used sparingly due to insufficient scientific research and vitamin and mineral imbalances. Calcium (for shell health) can be supplemented by adding pieces of cuttlebone to the diet. Younger turtles tend to be more carnivorous (eat more animal protein) than adults do. As they grow larger and older, they become increasingly herbivorous. Live foods are particularly enjoyed and add to the quality of life of captive turtles. Providing a wide variety of foods is the key to success with captive RES.

From wiki